Ultimate Africa July 22- Aug 9, 2010

July22-23, 2010
Bert and i are off on our 4th OAT trip, this time to another corner of the earth, southern Africa. First we get a 12 hour layover in London after an overnight flight from Boston on Brit Air. It's been 10 years since our last time in London. This time the Piccadilly line from Heathrow took us to Covent Garden from which we strolled to the Coutenauld Gallery in Somerset House alongside the Thames. Lots of impressionist and post impressionists from a single collection hung in a former palace-like great house. we had take-away lunch near the river and walked along the Thames through garden after garden- brilliant flowers and trees. Every one of every age enjoying a springlike day. We stopped at a bandstand to listen to school kids from a Michigan school sing and their band play the Stars and Stripes Forever to a group of elderly British pensioners some of whom got up and pranced to the music waving flags.
Requisite visits to Big Ben, the new Millennium Wheel, Parliament, Westminster, St James Park. I can still see Brian and Brittany as children feeding the ducks and geese and swans so long ago. They now have eastern white pelicans- enormous beaks so fascinating to watch. London is such a great city. Must come here more often. Tonight a night flight- 11 hours to Johannesburg South Africa.
July 24 Johannesburg, South Africa

One night in the Protea Tambo airport hotel. Met the 7 other tour members and then arranged a 4 hour tour of Soweto. Now several days since sleep and pretty wiped out. Oh well you only live once. Our guide, Kgomotso, a 6'6" rail thin Bantu so soft spoken we could hardly hear him, drove fellow tourist Louise and us to Soweto, a township just outside Jo'burg. Until 1976 this was the only place black S. Africans were allowed to live. Then ,on June 16th, a 13 y.o. named Hector Pieterson was shot by cops during a student march to protest their being forced to be taught in africaaners language rather than their own. All hell broke loose. No going back for the blacks and finally the end to apartheid after several years. Nelson Mandela and Bishop Desmond Tutu actually lived about 1000 feet apart. The Regina Mundi Church sheltered them and is now an interesting place to visit as are the museums. Today Soweto numbers40,000 and house range from derelict shanties of 1 room to gated concrete modern houses though small by our standards
On the way back to the hotel we started to nod off but managed to see downtown Jo'jurg which looks pretty western and modern. They had just hosted the world cup and we saw lots of evedence of recent sprucing up and bright loud vuvuzuelas for sale cheap. Dinner meeting the whole group of 9 and then blessed 10 hours of sleep.

July 25 Victoria Falls
After breakfast we flew to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, 40,000 population- transferred to a small bus after meeting Vitalis Chipunza, our guide for the next 2 weeks. Sttopped at our future hotel- looks lovely- there were warthogs across the street- and we could see the mist from the falls a mile away. We drove for an hour to the Botswana border, walking 5 minutes from Zimbabwe to Botswana after stepping on an antiseptic mat to prevent the spread of hoof and mouth disease. Along the way to the lodge we spotted zebras, elephants, impalas, hyenas, baboons and a male lion protecting his freshly killed buffalo- gross but fascinating.
It was dark when we arrived at the Baobob Lodge. Met by the staff singing and dancing welcoming us. There is a main lodge, open air which looked nice in the dark. Dinner was delicious- chicken, rice, vegetable and mushroom soup. I sat with Mat who is a guide. he told of his life growing up on a Botswana farm. Our accommodations for the next 3 nights is a 1 room thatched hut with a bathroom and shower, tented sides but fine. There is some power from a generator and hot water from solar. We cannot leave our tents due the animals outside. Must have a guide walk us to the main lodge and it will be this way all through the trip. The night is chilly but the staff has left us each a hot water bottle which is very much appreciated. up tomorrow at 5:30AM for our first game drive. Yikes!

July 26 Chobe National Park, Botswana
At 5:30 the staff came to each tent banging a drum. It is dark and cold and hard to get up but so excited for out adventure. We were split into 2 groups, 5 of us, Bob, Carol and Robin and Bert and I went with Alex and Willie for 5 hours on a Range Rover modified truck.3 rows of seats raised high and open. Very bumpy in the Kalahari sand of Botswana but great viewing. We saw zebras, impalas,wart hogs, waterboks, Cape buffalo, a southern giraffe, sable antelop. mongoose, a fish eagle and many multi colored birds. A second drive was similar. That night as we lay in the tent we could hear a troop of baboons calling out loudly as they passed by. So cool!
July 27 Chobe
Today we had a 10 hour game drive into chobe. Starting out on the paved road before going off road in the sand we ran into a huge pack of baboons , many with babies. Then onto the back roads of Chobe where we saw nursing elephants with their beautiful babies, giraffes, zebras and a huge herd of Cape buffaloes. always there were herds of impalas, then water bok and sable antelope. We had lunch prepared by the staff along the shore of the Chobe River. the highlight of our day with Matt our guide and Vitalis was the parade of elephants to the river where they drank, had mud baths and then swam across the river to Namibia. we laughed as the babies sank and sputtered and were pushed along by their mamas and aunties. though we were tired that evening we had barbecue and were serenaded and dancing by the camp staff. We responded with a weak version of Yankee Doodle Dandy.
July 28 Kasane, Botswana- East Caprivi, Namibia
We left camp following the highway and spotting the now bare carcass of the dead Cape buffalo,as well as many baboons and zebras and into the town of Kasane, Botswana. A jumping off town for safaris, we looked at various stores including the local Spar market- they had TAB!- . There were many warthogs freely roaming the streets as if they were dogs. There was guy who called us over and opened the back of his truck to reveal many skins on animals which he was selling. It was chilling to say the least. As nervous as he was looking around for the police I would say he was a poacher.
After an hour or so we embarked on a pontoon boat to go to our next lodge Savannah Chobe lodge located on the Chobe river although on the Namibian side of the border in the Caprivi Strip of the country. Most unusual was our formal entrance into Namibia. Alfred, our guide, pulled the pontoon up into the reeds in a really desolate area on an island and told us to follow him. We walked 10 minutes into the bush where we came upon a good sized concrete building- customs!
They hadn't seen anyone for 4 days- even stamped our passports wrong. then hike back , back on the boat and an hour later we reached our beautiful lodge. It seemed a paradise compared to Baobab. Our round thatched huts had AC, tiled baths and a deck overlooking the savanna with elephants, giraffes in constant procession. We slept under mosquito nets. a staff of 13 for 13 guests. Such luxury, unimaginable. The central lodge had several levels, ebony and teak flooring, soaring thatched ceiling, wonderful sculptures. Evening sunsets boat cruises with wine and thousands of elephants.
July 29 , 2010 Namibia

Two game drives via pontoon boats. There are no roads out here. Everything is brought in by boat from Kasane. Saw many aquatic African birds as well as hippos and crocs and, for a brief second a leopard. Had impala for dinner, very tasty, much better than the kudu we had for lunch. At dark, which is 6PM, we must always be accompanied outside by staff due to nasty hippos and buffalo. Dinner is at 8. We stargazed for awhile, first clear night- saw the Southern cross, Scorpio and Venus. Weather is cool but pleasant, probably in the 60s. Usually in bed by 10:30. We live like royalty. They even do our wash! There is free minibar and drinks as they have substituted this lodge for another due to flooding. We got the better deal I think. By 9PM after much wine everyone was laughing and interrupting poor Vitalis as he tried to announce tomorrow's program.
July 30, 2010 Namibia
After breakfast, we boated to a small village. Actually we debarked into reeds and hiked through tall grass for 30 minutes across the open savanna to the local school. The Kisaka Primary School has 187 students in grades 1-7. the children have few visitors unlike other schools we've visited in 3rd world countries. We saw 6th and 7th grades- kids 11-14 yrs old . they told us their hopes for the future- MDs,RNs,teachers,etc. they then performed a dance. When i took their pictures and showed them the view finder I was mobbed. Tomorrow we have agreed to buy supplies for the school in Kasane and send them back with Alfred when he drops us off. Another sunset cruise tonight, again stunning, never tire of the animals.
July 31, 2010 Botswana
A one hour boat ride back to the civilization of Kasane where Alfred used our $100 to buy lots of school supplies. We all them flew via small 1 engine aircraft about 50 minutes south over Chobe and to the Okavanga delta. this is the largest inland delta in the world. the land is very flat and covered with Kalahari sand, Trees and bushes somehow root in it as well as the grasses. there are no paved roads. Indeed the runway was packed sand. The plane's engine never stopped and we jumped out with our back packs and duffels to meet Lemmie and Chief ,our new guides for the next 3 days. We piled into our diesel jungle jeeps and were off through the bumpiest, windiest sand track imaginable. Twisting, turning and plunging into 4 foot high water holes and rivers. Definitely reminiscent of Mr Toad's Wild ride at Disney world- only this is real.
It was a 2 hour drive to the camp. Not as much game as at chobe though we did come upon a lion and lioness and were witness to a 5 second "nooner". Actually happened right at noon. There were 3 other jeeps nearby and we laughed we heard a British voice call out "That was it?". apparently they mate every 30 minutes or so for up to 3 days. No wonder they sleep so much.
Our camp is primitive, at least to me. We sleep in 15' by 15' tents on a platform. Zip in- no doors. Inside toilet and shower though and electricity that is intermittent. Hot water is solar. We have a deck which overlooks a plain but aside from "noises" and some awesome birds- especially the lilac- crested rollers- no mammal wildlife. Dinner is in an open air thatched center with wine and beer. Not like Savanna Chobe but OK for 3 days. The staff are warm and friendly.
August 1, 2010 Okavanga Delta, Botswana
One long game drive today. Not much game and kind of boring, if you can call running into - ho hum - more giraffes, impalas, elephants, wildebeests, kudus, hippos, boring! We did have a flat tire while in the water which was mildly exciting as Chief had to change it in 2 feet of water. The rides are very jarring . The guides can answer any question and are impressive. Tented Wilderness Camp is located in a conservancy area. these areas were set up by the government to replace income lost to the locals as they can no longer hunt here or poach. An observer is sent out with each group to make sure we do not go off road. Apparently it is kind of annoying to the camp guides as they have to pay them. Chief admitted that hunting only stopped a year ago and the animals, having long memories, are still afraid to return to the area. The long range plan is good, though.
August 2, 2010
How many people can say they spent their 59th birthday in a safari camp in the Okavanga Delta? I can! It certainly was memorable. We started the day with a ride in a mokuto, a pole propelled canoe through reeds. We spotted some birds and fish. After lunch I decided not to go out with the rest of the group. I just wanted to relax in what little sun warmth there was- this is winter down here. I got out my First Ladies Detective Agency book set right down here in Botswana and commenced reading on the deck. Bert was in the tent. There was a hippo a few yards away in the swamp though too low to bother me except with her noisy grunts. All of a sudden the trees next to the deck began to shake and there appeared a very large elephant who popped out of the brush. He seemed as surprised to see me as I him. I didn't move but called out to Bert. There was no way to get help as the staff were far away in the main area- about a quarter mile. Bert came out with the camera and the elephant, after staring at us for many minutes, just started chomping on the trees. He stayed for over an hour never more than 15 feet away. I decided after a while that he was my birthday elephant sent as my present. Eventually he wandered away when it got dark. when the rest of the group came back they admitted they had seen nothing on their drive.
Dinner that night was in the BOMA. It is an African meeting place. The staff had chosen me to be the queen and Bert was the king and we were dressed appropriately. We ate as the tribal people did. Women serving the men and then eating the food with bare hands. We and they sang and danced and put on little acts for each other. A wonderful night under a starry open sky.
Aug 3 Botswana to Zimbabwe
Time to move on again. We repeated in reverse the long bumpy ride back to the landing strip. I think I will always remember the smell of the sage everywhere. It just reminded me of making turkey stuffing. the drives through the rivers for up to 300 yards sometimes were memorable. the water would rush into the truck and over the hood. the exhausts on these truck were elevated as snorkels so they did not stall. Still the level changed all the time and we never knew how deep the water was going to get. Exciting.
Right on African time, the plane pulled in and we jumped on and whoosh! were off back to Kasane , then a bus ride to Vic Falls,Zimbabwe. One amusing thing was spotting the hyena at the border between Botswana and Zimbabwe. He seemed a bit bewildered by all of us.
We dropped extra luggage off at our future hotel and then off to the Vic falls airport for a very small plane flight to Hwange National Park. Only allowed basics because of weight issues but we managed. Though I had been nervous re these flights in the bush, by now I was a veteran and loved the small planes. The lodge at Hwange was again just a little different from the others. It overlooked several watering holes. The roads were a bit better. The tents pretty much the same though we were nearly a km away from the main lodge. We had a boardwalk but there were time there was an elephant in the way. They had a small swimming pool as well though no one used it except the elephants who used it as a water hole. We had unparalleled views from this lodge out over the plains. could see for miles. I watched an ostrich meandering one day. We did 2 game drives a day and had our happy hours each sunset out in the bush drinking wine and eating oer doevres. one day we went to a village and visited the school and then the home of the chief who met with us and told us of their lives. Very interesting. What I liked about this part of Africa was the people. They live very simple lives. No one begged. They were warm, generous, friendly,always smiling. Zimbabwe has been through a very difficult time this past decade. Their money is nonexistent, they were starving, yet no complaints. They are just trying to do better.
Aug 6 Victoria Falls
After a plane ride back to Vic Falls we checked into the Illalla lodge, a small boutique hotel, simply beautiful. I pulled the curtains back on my 1st floor room to find a baboon staring back at me, nose pressed against the window. The bellman said the baboons wanted to party when we left the room. I left the door locked. We went out to see the Victoria Falls. Magnificent. this was the area where the famous meeting of the reporter Stanley found Dr Livingstone a missing British missionary. Livingstone was the first westerner to see the falls. the spray rises high above the falls. they fall into a deep chasm but you can walk along opposite them. Constant rainbows everywhere.
Aug 7 Livingstone Zambia
We were so close we had to say we got to Zambia. It was right across the river. So we organized a tour and the whole group went except for Bob. Moslt y we toured the livingstone Museum which was very comprehensive. Our guide, Precious, Taught us so much about the country and its tribes and people and the change from trbial ways to modern. Therest of the city was clean and interesting. Market stalls and ladies with baskets on their head in colorful clothes. Low rise buildings. Few tourists. On the way back a herd of elephants came out to greet us. Where else would you see anything like this.?
Our last night 's dinner was at a restarant called the Boma. A local tourist place, a nightclub, they dressed everyone as they came in in a colorful cloth and gave us drums. We ate a buffet of many of the local animals including warthog, kudu and impala. Robin and I even got a certificate for eatigng some kind of big fat worm. Obviously I had had a bit of wine first. Someone came around and they painted our faces with pictures of various animals. Truly we had so much fun.
Aug 8 Vic Falls
Sadly we said goodbye to Vitalis as he was headed - hitchhiking -to his home in northern Zimbabwe. We flew from Vic Falls to Jo' Burg and on to London and on to Boston.Took the train home. Took 40 hours total. It was a terrific adventure.

Tortola - Virgin Gorda April 20, 2010

Here I had arranged to meet with Capt Egbert to take us to Virgin Gorda and the Baths. 10 of our new friends asked to join us for the day so we had a full boat. After a 40 minute speed boat ride past many of the smaller islands we landed at SpanishTown VG,BVI. and took an open ait jitney with Maxwell to the Baths. This is a BVI National Park. A beach out of a magazine. Down 150 steps passing iguanas and bougainvilleas to a white powder sanded beach with aqua clear warm water. The distinction here is the large number of immense boulders up to 2 stories high. There is a trail through them where you are aided by ropes and steps which leads to Devil's Bay equally as beguiling. I must say it was breathtaking. we found shade trees and sat together and thought how fortunate we all were. Most of the 50 or so other visitors were from the yachts moored off the beach. they just added to the scenery.

On the way back, as we exited the jitney and prepared to walk back to the speedboat I heard someone calling me from across the lot. Unbelievably it was Mal and Bonnie O'Connor- neighbors from home. Just off a dive boat they just happened to be there the same minute we were and if either of us was delayed just a minute.... Just one of those coincidences in life that make you shake your head.

Barbados April 19, 2010

Our third time here and probably our favorite. We caught a cab to Carlisle Bay away from the ships' crowds. Strictly locals, white talc sand and clear warm water. Even better we were joined by a few sea turtles who swam near us for over an hour. After lunch on the mother ship we went back out to Bridgetown, the capital, where Bert toured the parliament museum and Lisa, the kind 29 yo beautiful ticket person, let me use her laptop to do emails. She was so cool to meet and chat with. She had a Pottery Barn obsession.

Dominica April18 2010

This is our second visit in under 4 months to this lovely island. So different from other Caribbean islands in that agriculture not tourism s the primary means of income. It is 29 by 16 miles and very mountainous with sulphur springs on the southern end and fumaroles. 3500 Carib Indians live on a reservation on the north. We were scheduled to go tubing on the Layou river however it was cancelled due to heavy rains. Instead we rounded up Sabina and Yenyi Wu and Jim and Pat Bruneel for a day trip to the Emerald Pool and an island tour with our guide Henryford. (His real first name) .
The falls are reached by a 15 minute hike through the rain forest. Bert and I climbed down the rocks and into the very cool swirling water. Had to hold onto the roots as the current was so strong and pushing me to the edge of the second waterfall. Our surroundings though were spectacular. A huge grotto on each side of the falls filled with giant ferns and massive-leafed plants. The others left after a few pictures and we had the Emerald pool to ourselves. Heavenly.

Devil's Island, French Guiana April 15, 2010

We've left Brazil and now in French Guiana- technically a department or state of France- so it's merci and si vous plait instead of obrigada and por favor. Infamous Devil's Island is really 3 tiny islands 6 miles off the coast- Iles St Joseph, Ile Royale and Ile du Diable. Ile Royale is the main island 34 acres large and contains the ruins of the well known penal colony. For 100 years until about 60 years ago almost 100,000 poor souls were sent here from France many, many wrongly accused or for offenses that today would get them a slap on the wrist. Just a few degrees above the equator, it was brutally hot and most died from diseases as yellow fever, smallpox, malaria and just cruelty by the guards who themselves did not want to be here either.

Flash forward 60 years and today the islands are tropical paradises covered by palm trees and various flowers. No paved roads, dirt trails leading up to the ruins. There is a small hotel of 8 rooms for 81 euros a night. You come over from the mainland on your yacht. Otherwise it is absolutely peaceful and quiet. We got the first tender. The sea is very choppy with large swells making tendering an adventure. For an hour we had the place to ourselves. We visited the remains of the various cells, children's cemetery, church, hospital, warden's homes.

There was a family of monkeys in the large tree outside the church. The monkeys are not used to seeing people- only a few ships a years stop here and there is virtually no other way to get here. I spent a long time watching them as they scampered to within a few feet. Mothers with babies clinging to their backs, the father protector, young rascals who picked fruit and flung it directly at me. I later saw a large green Amazon parrot who was as intrigued with me as I with him. It poured intermittently making the trails muddy. indeed I had sandals on and upon returning to the ship had trouble washing it off. I thought about those many prisoners here for decades with no way to wash the muck off. So sad. I love a port like this. Combines history with nature and still unspoiled. Good day- The $3 Heineken beer from the hotel terrace just made it better.

Alter do Chao

Our last port in Brazil was the most quaint. Located 20 from Santarem which we visited on the way upriver, the village of maybe 1000 is located on the clear water Rio Tabajos. It fronts beautiful white sand beaches. The little shops are thatched and mostly located around the Praca- plaza. I found an internet in an old hippie hangout, Mae Natureza, guys with dreds,tattoos and Free Tibet signs- very cool. The river was pretty high nearly obliterating what seems to be a lovely sandbar with more thatched restaurants and bars, now partially underwater. the water was blue and, if you squinted you might be in the Caribbean. everyone was charmed by this port. As we had not spent many 'reals' we decided to buy something. Now we are the proud owners of a 40 lb turtle carved in one piece by a tribe further upriver. It functions as a stool and will be a great reminder of our time on the Amazon. Overall my impressions of Brazil was not as favorable due to the problems caused by the authorities and rampant problems with petty theft and crime. The Amazon lived up to its reputation and, though I would probably not return, I loved everyday I had here. As if to underscore my thoughts- I was walking back to the tender dock, looking at the mangroves and white sands and admiring the beauty of the black vultures circling overhead.

Suddenly one broke loose the group and started to swoop directly towards me. I looked at it and it at me. Almost face to face it opened its mouth and regurgitated about 6 ounces of foul smelling stuff which I watched , in slow motion, falling towards my head. Thankfully i stepped sideways and it missed by inches! One woman watching the scene ran over and said in her best British accent- "My dear, you were nearly baptized by a buzzard"!

Parintins, Brazil April 11, 2010

This small city has not much going for it other than it has an annual festival for a week in June called the Boi Bumba. Something about the mythical theft of a bull. 2teams, red and blue compete for the win, staging a lavish parade- costumes, feathers, music. Looks akin to opening ceremonies of the Olympics combined with Mardi Gras. There are few hotels so the riverboats line up and provide accommodations via their hammocks for the 70,000 who come. Folks really get into it.

We walked around for awhile. Sunday- everything closed. Apparently shopkeepers weren't excited by a 1200 passenger cruise ship even if it is a rarity. No matter- we walked in a driving but soft rain to the cathedral for Mass. No evidence there had ever been a service there- weird. We then decided to hire the primary means of transportation in Parintins- a bike cab. Basically 2 people sit in a small cab while a guy pedals you from behind. Hey, it was covered and he seemed nice though not a word of English. Mostly he just kept poking me in the back and pointing to various things. My job was to look interested and smile and nod. The two main sites were the Bumbodrombo -really just a large rickety stadium with red seats on one side and blue on the other. the second site was where a few of last years floats were stored and this was interesting. They were up to 2 stories high- dragons with movable claws, masks, costumes, something reminiscent of the 'Alien' creature. anyway they get 70,000 to go to the festival which is great for the economy. We finished the day with a couple of beers watching riverboats dock and disgorge their many passengers

Manaus day 2- April 10, 2010

After our long day yesterday we were determined to have a quiet unstructured day. Saturday in Manaus was so incredibly busy. Picture NYC on 5th Ave in December on a Saturday. that is how it was. We made our way to the Mercado- market to watch the fish unloaded. Merchants everywhere set up small kiosks, each next to each other selling anything from food to boat supplies to clothes to booze. A short downpour stranded us beneath a portico but we eventually made our way uptown 1/2 mile or 6 blocks to the Teatro Amazonas. the opera house. I remember learning about this when I was in grade school. How tons of granite and marble and great tapestries were brought up the Amazon and assembled for the greatly wealthy rubber plantation owners of 150 years ago. Descriptions do not do it justice. It is just breathtaking. the frescoes on the ceiling, the artistry accorded to the 701 patrons. We took an English language tour with Bruno, a terrific young 20- something man, half Japanese and half Indian. To make things even better, the symphony was rehearsing for the upcoming opera festival next week. Magical! Perfect acoustics. There is also a ballroom with Murano glass chandeliers and parquet flooring for which we wore felt slippers. How did they do this? Unbelievable. you have to imagine how remote this was in the 1800s. Hell, it's remote now!

We stopped outside in the plaza for lunch and visited Sao Joachim Cathedral known for its altar of praying hands- unique. I could have done with another day in Manaus but we left our floating dock at 6PM to begin our journey back down the Amazon, though with 2 more stops to come.

Manaus, Brazil April 9, 2010

Manaus is our ultimate destination. We've come 1000 miles up river to the giant city. You can't believe that this place has nearly 2 million people. Once a center of the rubber trade, now a big port exporting forest products and wood. There are container ships galore as well as the ubiquitous riverboats. They have become such a part of the scene to me now. Tomorrow we will visit the city with the famous opera house but today is our highlight.

I again hired a guide to take us upriver to swim with the pink dolphins called botos. Manaus is situated at the confluence of the Solimoes river (white from Peru) and the Rio Negro (black water- tannin- from Colombia). There is a long meeting of the waters for 11 miles.

We went up the Rio Negro for 80 km with Matthias Raymond. I found him through a google search a month ago.I got 3 other couples to join and had so many requests that I filled a second day for him as we are in port overnight. Even then I has people begging me to add them as the ship does not offer a tour like this. I was kind of nervous as I felt responsible. No worries though. Rodolpho, who I corresponded with initially, met us at the dock and introduced us to Matthias . He grew up in the jungle for 12 years and is now a jungle survival teacher and guise saving to net a degree as a naturalist and then write a book. His English was excellent. We took off in a speedboat at full throttle past the city, under the bridge that is eventually going to cross the Negro-someday- things go slowly in Brazil- been years already.

The river is very wide- over a mile. Unfortunately we hit a severe thunder and lightning storm with very heavy rain. The boat had a flat canopy with side flaps which we lowered. After 2 hours we rode out of the storm, though ,as there was residual thunder, we headed first to lunch with an indigenous family. The family consisted of a husband and wife, 2 children - 3yo girl and 9yo boy- and another couple. They supplement their small income hosting the occasional group as us. We were served chicken, fish, rice and macaroni as well as manioc, mango juice and cucumber. they were shy but nice. Matthias explained about their plants and uses. Acer palms for the berries, cassava roots for the manioc,etc. Cara cara birds flying about. They had a refrigerator,a stove and even a TV but no money to pay for the electricity so not used. There is a power supply out here but kind of useless. We bought some beads from them and one of the couples bought a mask and blow gun- yes they use them to kill monkeys. We then made our way to the dolphin station.

The pink dolphins live throughout the amazon. they are up to 5-6 feet and about 350 lbs. Some are all pink though many have some gray. Their snouts are very narrow and they have sharp teeth, also no dorsal fin. The woman who runs this station- the only one in the country- has a floating platform extending into the river from a good sized hut with a deck. Six of us got down unto the platform which made us waist deep in the water. Her son , Erico, then grabbed a pail of fish and slipped into the water calling the nearby wild botos. the know the drill and began to swim over. Because the Negro is black, you almost cannot see them until they are upon you so they startled us. Erico held the fish underwater to tempt them and then raised his arm over his head to get better pictures as they jumped up for the fish. After 15 minutes we were all comfortable touching them. We then jumped all the way into the river- no idea how deep- and for the next hour we played with the dolphins. The bumped into us and let us feel them. They leaped up for the fish. They swam between us and under us and even between our legs. I had never tread fresh water for an hour before but it passed like seconds. Unforgettable experience. we were absolutely delighted- laughing and joking. Matthias took pictures as did the 2 persons who did not go into the water.

We reluctantly left the Negro which is incredibly clean even though the water is so black, and continued back towards Manaus. Just before reaching the city we stopped at an Indian reservation where a small group of Dessana Indians performed many of their dances for us. we then walked through the village. they have been relocated here from the outer reaches of the jungle so the government can provide better services for them. Even so they live quite primitively in a group of 120 or so. There is some electricity and 1 phone attached nearby to a loudspeaker. whoever answers the phone goes on the loudspeaker to call for the recipient. Everywhere we walked we were watched by a flock of black vultures ominously glaring down at us from their perches in the trees.

We had a great day especially after the weather cleared. It seemed so odd to leave the jungle and within 2 hours be back in such a large city as Manaus.

Boca Valeria April 8, 2010

Boca Valeria is a very small village- perhaps a dozen huts and 100 people. They have a 1 room school - a hut with 2 blackboards, 15 old wooden deskchairs and a globe. The church is a little more substantial. Everything is built on stilts for the rising waters. as they are directly on the river about 10 cruiseships a years visit to give passengers a taste of a small village. The villagers who are indigenous people respond with their own entrepreneurship by selling handicrafts, offering boat rides in small canoes with engines and dressing themselves and their children in feather costumes for a picture. "One dollar please" They also carry a jungle pet for pictures. again a dollar. we saw toucans, a capybara- giant rodent, marmosets, a spider monkey, parrots and sloth. Took a boat ride up the Valeria river to another village. Fun. Saw the giant water lilies- Victoria Regiana, 3 feet across! Donated supplies for the school as did other passengers to help out. HAL brought 50 kids on board for a tour and lunch. There is too much begging but a good day nonetheless.

Santarem continued

We met Alec's family and saw his home. The river is high now and rising until June- sometimes 50 feet. Therefore the caboclos - traditional forest dwellers of Amerindian and Portuguese descent - must abandon their houses and move to higher ground or just live in the hammocks. No one has a bed. The small animals live with them. The livestock such as horses and Brahman cattle and the larger pigs are moved on a barge. The huts are simple, outdoor fire, no electricity, bathe in river. Diet is local berries, tapioca and, of course, fish. We saw several fishermen in their dugout canoes catch piranha and many other species.
In the canoe we paddled into the flooded forest. It was, in a word, awesome.. Basically we were floating just below the canopy up close and personal to the monkeys, sloths and birds. Perfectly silent except for the noisy calls of alarm from the various species. Alec used a machete to cut a slice in a rubber tree and we each felt the white "bleed" latex sap running from it. Rubber was "king" here for 50 years until an enterprising Englishman stole 70,000 seeds- they are the size of walnuts- and brought them to Malaysia where they grew so much easier than here.
We spent hours wandering in the canoe throughout the forest. Fascinating- another "lifetime experience". Towards the end, Paolo spotted a sloth near us and Alec climbed up the tree to get her. He carried her down for us to meet. She was pregnant and so sweet-looking. Many of the jungle children keep sloths as pets. The eat leaves , sleep 20 hours a day and move so slowly it is comical to watch. they are, however, excellent swimmers which seems at odds with their phlegmatic natures.
We transferred back to the Genesis 2, pictured above and eenjoyed a caparinha made by the crew. It is a mixture of lime juice and cachaca. Cachaca is the local moonshine made from sugar cane. It is so good I bought a bottle and a bag of limes as soon as we got back to shore.
We ended our day with a short walk through downtown Santarem and then a 3 mile walk back to the Veendam. Along the way we passed many dozens of riverboats tied to the shore. They are all open-sided. Passengers use the river as the highway since there are virtually no roads. Trips go for days. Everybody brings their own hammock and they tie them up next to each other. Have to get there early to get a good spot- not next to the toilet. Very, very colorful. The hammocks not the toilets.
We also passed the fish market. Never saw fish like these! Such a great day. I was sorry to say goodbye to Paolo. He is a great guide. Gave the me the kiss- kiss -like Javier in Mendoza Argentina- I like these South American men- A great, great day!

Santarem

This is the boat we used to explore the area around Santarem. There are thousands of these boats of varying sizes up and down the river. People just attach their hammocks on the open decks. We sat on the top deck observing the wildlife as we sipped caparinhas. Ah! The life

Santarem April 7, 2010

Santarem is a small city halfway between Belem amd Manaus about 5000 miles up the river away from the ocean. So far the best day of the trip. I had hired a private guide for this port. Paulo Coelho is a 44 year old Ximango Indian who lived in the jungle until he was 12. At that time he left the village to join his brothers in Santarem. Saw a school for the first time. Now self taught he speaks 4 languages, can tell you any bird, tree or plant. we were a group of 6- I had invited Deborah and Mike McKenna and Peter and Peg Martin- and were enthralled by his enthusiam for and animated delivery of his work.

After a short taxi through Santarem we boarded a small riverboat amd climbed to the top. the sun was tempered by fluffy white clouds and not too hot We motored with a crew of 4-5 past the meeting of the waters of the Tapajo River, rather clear and blue and the Amazon whch is brown. they differ in temp, density and velocity and run side by side for 4 miles before merging.

We saw almost 40 kinds of birds- every color and size from toucans and snowy egrets to anis, caracaras, hawks, parrots. We saw iguanas swimming ans sloths. After an hour during which time we were served fruits, nuts and water, we transferred to a small canoe paddled by Alec, a young teen Indian and Paulo.

going to end this now as a long line to use internet and I feel guilty, will continue soon, thanks for comments

Macapa April 7, 2010

This is a city of 250,000 on the equator though today there is a nice breeze. We have had a hard time the last week dealing with norovirus and rather corrupt Brazillian officials. Some charge cigarettes and others booze and others just money. Nontheless they have kind of cutailed our ports. We saw a little of the cities but now we are on the Amazon. I woke up to the sound of the small river boats slowly chugging their way up and down the brown lazy river. So wide that you cannot always see the edges. It is so humid but I am acclimating pretty well. There were 2 pink dolphins along side yesterday and a few birds. The markets are so interesting. the children are beautiful of course. The folks in this city are pretty isolated but much nicer than on the coast. Few animals though we went to a zoo the other day in Belem.
Macapa is unusually clean compared to what we have seen and it seems safer. We have had over a dozen passengers mugged including a lady yesterday who was knifed for her camera. She took a few stitches and seems alright now. Can be quite dangerous unless you keep your wits about you. That said it is all quite interesting. Have to go. Loved all your comments. Sotrry about the floods. I did see a short thing on CNN about the Warwick mall. Feel so out of touch here. I miss everyone. Luckily I brough a video of Riley that we have watched. Tomorrow a jungle trip in Santarem

Maceio Brazil March 30, 2010

We actually were also here 2 years ago. essentially a beach town with gorgeous turquoise water, white sand and really brightly colored sailboats on the shore .this time we have come into town on a shuttle bus to beat the heat- it is in the 90s. We have an outbreak of norovirus onboard starting yesterday so passengers and staff are starting to become quarintined. They are presing different staff into serving the food as even the waiters are affected. Essentially you are confined to your cabin for 4-5 days. they take away your key so you cannot get out. If it gets too bad they will not allow the ship into the ports. In addition we found out last night that many people were robbed even with a knife to their throats in Salvador. We saw nothing of this but we are now doubly aware of our surroundings, not that it will curtail us. Thank you for your comments. I love to read them. The keyboards in these internet cafes leave a bit to be desired so thats why it may be hard to read.

Salvador Bahia Brazil

Palm sunday in Salvador. A giant mass on the old city plaza with thousands of the faithful. Carrying umbrellas from the alternating heat and showers. We toured the St Francis Church, interior totally coverd in real gold. The most gaudy, ornate church I,ve ever seen. It was built by the African slaves who were not alllowed to worship there. To retaliate they made the cherubs faces somewhat grotesque, with giant phalluses for the boys and the girls pregnant looking. Last century they started to cover them up but still fun to look for them. A colorful old crumbling city. Second time here. We are natives! Sea day tomorrow . Loved the drum boys. A man also made a flower for me from palms. An appropriate souvenir for today.

Ilheus, Brazil

Finally a day late we reached Rio. too late to see anything but, wonder of wonders, our bags also made it! I could have kissed them. It was so obvious the airline peoplewere not going out of their way to find them. All in all though we found American Air to be great.
We got on board the Veendam to find our room, 219, located on the aft with a large balcony with 2 chairs and 2 large loungers. As close to heaven as you can get!
Our departure from Rio was a little late so it was dark. One of the 10 most beautiful ports in the world. Still great even in the dark. Onnnnn the 26th we had a sea day. I attended lectures on digital photography.
Today we are in Ilheus. a city next to the most beautiful beaches with 222,000 people. Quite lovely. the home of the famous author/Jorge Amado author of Dona Flores and her 2 husbands among others. At his house we were happy to run into a great older man who was a storyteller. He acted out the story of the city.From its begininngs as a cacao plantation site with its colonels and their slaves. A women from the ship happened to be there and she animatedly translated. It was the highlight of the day. Very funny.
The temp is at least 90 with similar humidity with relief from some breezes. The people seem quite affable. the internet is cheap at about a dollar an hour. We are just wandering around enjoying ourselves and taking it all in. This is just what I would want in a Brazillian city. Tomorrow Salvador. It will be Palm Sunday so maybe interesting. Outside here on the plaza the young men demonstrate capoeira which is a form of fighting and dancing. Almost looks like martial arts.

Brazil

Well we are off for 5 weeks to Brazil and a long cruise on the HAL Veendam which will wind its way from Rio , up the coast of Brazil, up and down the Amazon, onto the Caribbean and then up the US coast to NYC after 31 days. Off to an inauspicious start. The Boston bound train was late, then the first plane to Miami was delayed, we were transferred to a NYC plane which also was aborted,and finally back to the original Miami flight. Today instead of Rio, we are in Miami having arrived during the wee hours without luggage. Our main concern now is to find it before we board the ship tomorrow in Rio. In all these travels this is the first lost luggage. American Air has done their best, but it may be a long time before it works its way to us. Fingers are crossed and they have put us in a lovely hotel near the airport. We try again tonight. Glad we saw so much of Rio 2 years ago as we will only see the rather seedy port area tomorrow. Hope I remember where the wine store is. I may need it. Oh well, the very best trips only get better. Meanwhile Miami is warmer than Rhode Island.

Greenland

Sept 16, 2009 Nuuk, Greenland
Our first look at Greenland is impressive. the weather has cleared and although 35, it is dry. Nuuk is the capital and with half of the population- around 30,000. The houses are, again, multicolored but not particularly cute. The people are primarily Inuit with a few Danes. They speak Greenlandic- taught in schools, secondarily Danish and some have English. Nuuk is surrounded by high mountains now mostly clear of snow though you can see glaciers. Only 100km of roads though none lead out of town. There is an airport which lands rather small planes. There is even a traffic light as there must be 1000 cars. In the winter, when there is almost no daylight, they use sleds and snowmobiles. We walked all around town marvelling at the majestic scenery- icebergs in the harbors, hills rising everywhere. The children were adorable. Only 5 cruise ships a years come here so bringing 3000 plus 1000 crew is a huge event here. There are 3 buses and a few cabs but it is a very small place and no need. We had our lunch on a hill overlooking the 2 ports. The grass is mostly lichens, different colored mosses- orange, dark red, yellow. As I said it is 35 degrees and the Inuits are opening their windows for air. Warm for them. One negative is the sixties Soviet style concrete block apartment building- 12 rows of them which is a blight. Apparently they are to be torn down soon and new apts. are being built. These apts. are an attempt to attract those Inuit who live outside the village to provide better education and medical services.
We stayed ashore for 7 hours. Supermarkets were interesting as usual. food expensive but perhaps 30% higher than ours except for seal and whale meat. 2lbs hamburger were $10, tomatoes about 75 cents each and grapes $3 a pound. Some passengers complained that there weren't enough services or things for them to do. So frustrating listening to them.
To top off our lovely day in Nuuk, tonight we saw the aurora borealis, the northern lights. The sky was clear, no moon. For an hour from 10:45 to 11:45 green ribbons of light danced overhead. Fading and brightening we also caught glimpses of red for a few moments. What an experience!

Sept 18, 2009
We got the ship moored in the harbor of Nanotalik Greenland. We were on line for the tenders and the Captain cancelled this port call. Capt. nick Nash is very cautious. This is the 3rd port he's bailed out on and everyone is ready to scream. It is absolutely stunning here. Icebergs everywhere, the mountains shrouded in mist and light snow. Incredibly magnificent, like being in an outdoor cathedral. It is almost partly sunny. i think Nash worries that the very elderly seniors will be hurt tendering in. Someone fell last port sustaining facial injuries and we left someone in the Nuuk Hospital. The village children are lined up on the shore. Only 1500 inhabitants. This was to be their extra income for the year. The had practiced their songs and dances. I am sick for them watching us sail away. So disappointed but we'll spend the day cruising the Qonok fjord.
The fjord was awesome. The mountains on either side rose up thousands of feet with a fine sugar powder coating of snow. We sailed for an hour or two until the charts ran out. Towards the end of the fjord was a still working gold mine and lots of icebergs. Only 15% of Greenland is not in ice in the summer. We spotted a seal on a berg who finally rolled off into the water as well as a few whale spouts and a brief glimpse of one surfacing.
Sept 21
Another aborted port in St john's Newfoundland due to poor weather so instead we made for Halifax Nova Scotia. Was a bright sunny day with temp 72- about double what we've had. This is a busy delightful place much like Newport without the crowds. The Public Gardens were in full bloom with fountains, bridges, pavilions and duck ponds. The citadel overlooks the city and we watched the noon cannon go off with its guard change. The highlights were the boardwalks along the port with lots of various types of ships, shops and artists and musicians including a bagpiper. Nova Scotia means new Scotland and they embrace their heritage.
In the afternoon we toured Keith's brewery. Well done with energetic young guides in 1850 period costume portraying characters of the day. The India Pale was great and we brought an 8 pack of the red ale.
One last day of sailing and then New York. We disembark at the Brooklyn pier. To compensate us for our lost days in Scotland, Iceland, Greenland and Canada, Princess gave us $250 in ship credit. So thank you Princess for my new watch. It was a nice cruise overall. Not the best. crown princess is too large for me. 3100 passengers with no was to go outside due to weather. Because of lost port days we had a lot of unplanned sea days which are fine if you can sit outside. Saw a lot of movies, a few shows, met some interesting people. Many of these people have been everywhere so it was interesting to listen to their stories. I enjoyed the balcony even if we didn't use it much. The ability to get fresh air was great. Now home to family, work, flu shots and most importantly, Dad's funeral.

The Faroe Islands

Sept 10, 2009 Torshavn, Faroes
One of the reasons I booked this trip was that the ship docked at this remote group of 18 islands just below the Arctic circle. Now owned by Denmark, the Faroese people have their own language, money and customs. They have a parliament and a fierce sense of their own identity going back to their beginnings as a Viking settlement. Today 47,000 citizens, half of whom reside in the capital Torshavn. We rented a car to explore the island of Stremoy- the 18 are connected via bridges, tunnels or ferries. As luck would have it our friends Paul and Marilyn joined us. Due to the severe weather many ships tours were cancelled. Stremoy is maybe 30 miles by 10 miles with large mountains in the middle- mostly shore roads. There were clusters of small villages of multi-colored and black houses about 25% of which had grass and turf roofs. even some of the churches had turf roofs.
We followed the road, basically 1 1/2 lanes wideto the end and northenmost part of the island. The last 3 miles were on a single lane about 500 ft ablove the sea with a 1000 ft of rock ledge above us. The road twisted and turned and i prayed there were no oncoming cars. The sheep were everywhereand, though the islands are totally volcanic, there was short grass everywhere- 70,0000 sheep as well as flocks of geese and ducks waddling around the fields. The village, , has 67 inhabitants located on 3 sides by mountains but facing the sea with a black sand beach. Looking across to the island of Estremoy we could clearly see 2 sea stacks each 75 meters tall. They are Reisen and Kjellger who in mythology were an Icelandic giant and his wife who thought the Faroes were so beautiful they tried to pull them home to Iceland but sun up turned them to stone. We met the only resident who was home. Named Brendus who, with perfect English, told us of growing up here. it was cold, windy and dramatically, beautifully wild. Hundreds of waterfalls everywhere falling to the sea from the interior mountains.
Tomorrow another sea day. The wind and sea have not abated. the North Sea is very violent and rough. the temp never above 54 but feels so much colder. There is frequent fog and more rain. While the Faroes are beautiful, it must be awful in the winter with so little sun. They get only 989 hours of sun a year!

Sept 12, 2009 Iceland
An aborted attempt to dock at Akureyri, Iceland. The weather was sunny for the first time but wind howling and the dock too rickety to hold the ship . So much disappointment as I looked forward to seeing the geothermal wonders of this area of northern Iceland. Could see the gorgeous ponies from the ship. Our little Riley's 1st birthday today. We miss her and Tessa.

Sept 13, 2009 Reykjavik, Iceland
Since we were here just 2 years ago we forewent a car and just strolled the city. Went to Mass at the Catholic cathedral. The choir sang in Latin though the priest's prayers were in Icelandic. At the kiss of peace the tall older woman in front of me turned towards me and shook my hand with a ferocity I had never felt before. It felt like she broke my fingers and wrenched my arm at the same time. As she turned back I started to view her as one of those huge Wagnerian opera divas with the breastplate and horned hat. She was strong! Got on the internet for 1/2 hour to see what was up in the world and to wish the granddaughters a happy birthday. Doesn't seem they could be a year old already.
Now 2 days at sea to get to Greenland. Really rough and many have sea sickness patches on. I love it!

Crown Princess Transatlantic 2009 cont'd

Sept 7, 2009 Stavanger ,Norway
A new country for me. Stavanger is a small city with a compact old town. Weather is windy and rainy. We skipped the fjords tour and walked through the old section of colorful wooden merchant houses with the baskets of flowers and cobblestoned streets to the oil museum. It is a warm and dry refuge for a few hours learning about the hazards and costs and mechanisms of building those mammoth oil rigs which are ubiquitous in the North sea around here. While a bit boring- no pun intended, well maybe a little- to many women- we lined up on the benches waiting as the men read every word on every exhibit, it did give me a greater appreciation for what it takes to obtain a barrel of oil and why it costs so much. After a drippy visit to the Cathedral which had a beautiful wooden carved pulpit and someone playing the organ, we adjourned to the ship.

Sept 7, 2009 Bergen , Norway
The second largest city in Norway, Bergen retains much of its charm. Its Bryggen is a section designated a world heritage site. the old merchant houses painted red, blue, yellow, white, green and heavily timbered, now house small shops. Prices are criminally high. An ice cream cone is $5US, sweaters $150, Tshirts $20 and probably made in China. We sampled whale meat in the fish market- actually quite tasty. People were buying seal and reindeer skins and lots of troll dolls. Weather again miserably cold and spitting rain. tried to find a reasonably cost internet however $1 for 3 minutes was too high. Takes that long to log on. We crossed the pedestrian center to the Bergen Kunstmuseum which is comprised of 3 buildings and houses a fabulous collection of Norwegian artists. the foremost artist is Edvard Munsch (The Scream) but the others were wonderful colorful impressionists to modern. Obviously influenced by the French but a Norsk take on the genre. The best buy in Norway at $10 a ticket. After running to the shuttle in a soaking rain, we were safely ensconced, drying in our warm cabin when the fire alarm went off followed by a terse "This is not a drill""All crew to muster" Tense moments later it was explained that a minor fire in the engine room was under control. 30 minutes later the Captain came on to tell us that we would not be sailing tonight as the port was closed due to a severe storm in the North Sea.
We stayed put and left the next AM. Unfortunately now missing our stop in the Shetlands. As I write this on (9/9/09) we are sailing on 18 foot waves with 40 mph winds. Luckily the sun is out and I am am happy with a good book outside on deck in a rather windproof nook. We are passing the largest natural gas platform in the world. 1500 ft high above the water. It takes 9 minutes in the elevator to reach the sea floor thousands of feet below.

Transatlantic -England to New York, Sept, 2009

August29-30,2009 England and Wales

Somehow I knew back in January when I booked this trip that I was taking a chance. Two ill parents, both loved to travel. Mom died 6 weeks ago, Dad in his last days. I felt I had done all I could for him and that he would want me to go. I said goodbye to him this AM. Somehow I know he heard me and understood.

We took the train to Boston and Aer Lingus via Dublin to Manchester, England. On board was the Irish Prime Minister and his cabinet- Ted Kennedy's was this AM. That was both reassuring and disconcerting- extra security but increased alert to terrorists. We did get immediately clearance for takeoff. fast flight, just over 4 1/2 hours to Dublin.

Picked up the VW Golf rental. Immediately I had to drive, manual , left side road, right handed drive, down 13 floors of the parking garage and into the maelstrom of English roundabouts and M roads- on 5 days of maybe 16 hours sleep cumulative. Our first stop was Chester, England. A lovely, 2000 years old Roman- founded city filled with black and white timbered buildings. Totally enclosed within thick, walkable city walls, it was easy to park on a Sunday morning. The bells of the Cathedral pealed continuously as we wandered around. Baskets of bright red and blue flowers hung on light fixtures, cobbled street. Brightly colored narrow boats parked along the River Dee and its canal.

After lunch at a Subway we continued into northern Wales stopping first at Conwy Castle and its old suspension bridge with bridge keeper and toll house. We also toured Aberconwy House- an ancient merchant's house- 400 years old.. first use of the Royal Oak card Bert purchased for $80. We can use it at any National Trust property and we plan to get our money's worth. From there we headed west to Bangor and Penrhyn Castle. About 200 years old, this place is magnificent. Puts a Newport mansion , even the Breakers, to shame. Located on 100's of acres overlooking the sea, each room was filled with fabulous furniture and artifacts.

Our hotel in Bangor was at the Management Center run by the university business school. Really nice rooms though we had so much trouble finding it. Recently renovated hundred year old building with multi floors and stairs. I got lost every time I left the room. The day turned to a night with driving sheets of rain.

August 31, 2009

Our driving day through Wales. On and off rain but lovely scenery through the vales and mountains. Every sign in wales is first in Welsh and then English. ARAF means slow. Nearly every word is unintelligible and impossible to guess. The Welsh people work hard to preserve their culture and it shows. After passing many small villages filled with stone houses with slate roofs and baskets of flowers we visited Powis Castle. Smaller than yesterday's castle but with killer gardens terraced with gigantic hanging yews leading down to rose gardens lined with a half dozen lead statues. In the distance were views of England. After a several hour traffic jam due to a steam rally, we drove to the Frogmills Hotel in the Cotswolds.

Sept 1 The Cotswolds- land of sheep and honey colored stone

Our hotel is a just opened renovated granary beautifully set in a huge field with sheep and horses. We first visited Chedsworth Roman Villa ruins discovered just 100 years ago. It is a 1600 years old farm with outstanding intact mosaic floors. To get there we travelled the many gorgeous little villages built of Cotswold stone- a yellow ochre color reminiscent of Tuscan stone though brighter. Cute names like Withington, Upper and Lower Slaughter, Bibury and Stow in Wold.

At Burford I finally found a library which had internet connection. Sadly it was here that I learned that my father had died the day before- about 36 hours after I left him. Though I knew it was coming it was still so hard to believe. As I replied to various emails, I was overcome - apologies to the librarian. We walked the village streets for awhile then took a short drive. Rounding a bend in a small lane we came upon a field over which was a beautiful rainbow. Many who know me know the story of Molly and the rainbows. Last year Dad and I had a talk about the possibility of Heaven. I asked him to let me know he was OK via a rainbow. And just 15 minutes after learning of his death there it was. I knew immediately. Not only that- Bert and I hiked through a sheep field 30 minutes later and came across a double rainbow. OK Dad, I get the point! Thank you for everything. I will never forget you.

Sept 2,2009

We decided to stay here at the Frog Mill- so lovely. Today we went to see the collection of Charles Wade- 22-000 artifacts in an old mansion- anything you could imagine this guy saved. So cool. Then Hidcote Gardens. Actually kind of outdoor rooms. Every different color and type of flower. The walls were the hedges separating the "rooms". You walked through a wide cut to go from one to the other. each "room"as totally different, some all white flowers, another purple and yellow, others were different fragrances. Stunning and peaceful. Just what I needed.

Sept 3, 2009 Stonehenge

Today was neolithic stone day. First Avebury- a village surrounded by 100 odd tall monoliths arranged in a large circle hundreds of meters across- sheep laying next to them. Remnants of Hurricane Danny produced 50 mph winds blowing away the rain clouds. Great walks , few people. In contrast, Stonehenge 20 miles south is rather unimpressive. Loads of tourists by the busload. We also saw a couple of Wiltshire horses carved into the hillsides outside towns- in chalk. Kind of fun.

Sept 4, 2009

We leave for Southampton to meet our ship, Crown Princess tomorrow. On the way we stopped at Winchester Cathedral- can't get the song out of my head. Here we met up with old friends Martin and Anne Wright from Surrey. We spent time with them on our 2002 Russian trip and have been corresponding ever since but have not seen each other in 7 years. Great to see them again and, after a tour of the Cathedral and the Great Hall of the now defunct castle, we had a "proper tea".

Sept 5, 2009 Southampton

This is a rather non-descript city famous for launching the Titanic. Another city who wishes their castle hadn't crumbled. There are signs glorifying where such and such castle was but now gone. I think of these cities as having castle envy. Our ship, the Crown Princess, is 116.000 the largest we have been on. nice room with a balcony. Routine sail away with the next day at sea passing many oil rigs