We started the day with a balloon over the Valley of the Kings and Queens. My only description is that it was a life time experience. Though I was nervous initially, once in the basket with 9 others it was awesome. The ground seemed to just fall away and the view over the temples and tombs was astounding. It was just before dawn when we lifted off. all around us were the dozen or so balloons of every collor fired up against the dark sky. The sun popped up on cue over the Nile. All we could hear besides the roar of the burners was the sound of the white donkeys braying below in the village. The west bank of Luxor is utterly primitive with mud huts and farms going back hundreds to thousands of years. We flew with Mohammed our captain for an hour rising to 2000 feet. We landed softly in a sugar cane field. While waiting for the rescue crew we saw a dozen young kids on donkeys gallopping across the field towards us. Begging , of course, and we resisted on the advice of Mohammed. Now i can't wait to do another ballon ride. After a visit to the Luxor Museum and the fruit market, we boarded our riverboat, the Royal Serenade. She may have seen better days but we are only 20 persons with a crew of 54.
The temp is 115 with no breezes. We glided upstream passing camels, water buffalo, palm trees and occasional mud villages. There is a very thin ribbon of greenery on each bank with the desert right behind where the irrigation stops. We haven't seen a single cloud since we left NY.
Bert has been feeling poorly the past 2 days. Antinal has not worked on him. Other than the Chilean cold last year this is the first time we've gotten ill during our travels. We are enjoying many of our fellow passengers especially life partners Miguel and Richard from Queens , NY. Miguel teached mime and public speaking at CUNY. During a party on the boat he was challenged to do a Charlie Chaplin and Michael Jackson imitation. Hysterical. With his Spanish accent and positive attitude he reminds me of Oswald from Amazing Race. Another couple from the South spend several months a year working with their church group building schools and orphanages in 3rd world countries at their own expense. A widow from California has been spending 3 months a year in Tanzania teaching music and art and helping to found a school there. Interesting and wonderful people to get to know.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Luxor continued
At the valley of the kings we visited 3 tombs- you have a choice of about 10. You walk throgh several hundred yards of passageway lined with brilliant hieroglyphics pertaining to that particular king..It was very crowded and unbearably hot- even at 7 AM. That said i really enjoyed it. Outside the tombs there are large hill of barren rock. Nothing green- hiding untold treasures beneath. nearly all the known tombs had been looted, only Tut's tomb remained intact.
We then visited Hatsheputs temple- not that impressive - followed by the valley of the queens for a tomb similar to those a few hours before. Here is was nearly deserted and we had the place to ourselves. A visit to an alabaster factory, lunch and then, blessedly the pool. This evening we took a short ride in a feluca, a sail boat on the Nile. I think we drank a little too much- the heat you know- and it was little difficult getting off. Later a carriage rise through town in the dark accompanied the ever present sounds of the muezzin- the call to prayer for the moslims. This seems to go on all day starting at 4 AM. I think each mosque has a different time to do the call and since there are so many it seems to be every 5 minutes. The sound is a bit grating not as pretty as the church bells of Europe. It just reinforces the exotic atmosphere. Yes Bonnie I did think of Josh existing in this heat and climate. Bless him, I don't know how he did 15 months in Iraq.
We then visited Hatsheputs temple- not that impressive - followed by the valley of the queens for a tomb similar to those a few hours before. Here is was nearly deserted and we had the place to ourselves. A visit to an alabaster factory, lunch and then, blessedly the pool. This evening we took a short ride in a feluca, a sail boat on the Nile. I think we drank a little too much- the heat you know- and it was little difficult getting off. Later a carriage rise through town in the dark accompanied the ever present sounds of the muezzin- the call to prayer for the moslims. This seems to go on all day starting at 4 AM. I think each mosque has a different time to do the call and since there are so many it seems to be every 5 minutes. The sound is a bit grating not as pretty as the church bells of Europe. It just reinforces the exotic atmosphere. Yes Bonnie I did think of Josh existing in this heat and climate. Bless him, I don't know how he did 15 months in Iraq.
Luxor July 1,2008
We started out at 4:45 this AM after a 4AM wakeup call. We are 2 groups of 10 with 2 leaders and 2 small vans but stay at the same hotels and eat together. Our Isis group has been relatively healthy with only 2 cases of Mummy Tummy. the other Habibi group members are dropping like flies. One lady did not come this AM so that made 1 less. We took a colorful boat across the Nile to watch the sun rise from the West Bank at a farm. There was a woman there baking our breads in anoutdoor oven- they also use the sun to bake breads- that's how hot it is. We sat on carpets at 2 huge round tables outside beside the river and were served a breakfast really not unlike a western bkfst.Halfway through the meal Louis at the other table suddenly became unresponsive. Two of us are nurses- he didn't seem to be having a heart attack- good pulse and color- possibly a stroke or diabetic thing or just the heat. He came around after a few minutes fully alert but we sent him and his wife back on the boat to see a doctor- he seems fine tonight.- anyway 3 down. We then went to the Valley of the Kings- the tombs of the Pharoahs. Thjere the other group leader fainted twice and had to be carried away- 4 down. On top of that 3 of the habibi group have terrible coughs. We combined both groups onto our bus. We think they are cursed!
Monday, June 30, 2008
Cairo June 29,2008
Back again. So odd to use this internet. Nearly all of it is in Egyptian and you have to do everything from right to left. Their letters resemble squiggles and ,to me, are indecipherable. So I was talking about yesterday and our time in old Cairo. We also saw a water buffalo tied to a fence in the middle of the city (produces milk for the street). Everywhere you look there are minarets and mosques, apparently over 10,000. The streets in the old part are cobbled and sandy. Nearly every women wears a veil. The egyptians have become much more fundamentalist in the past 20 years.
After lunch we toured the Egyptian Museum. The most extraordinary artifacts stored in an unairconditioned 110 year old building that looks like something from an Indiana Jones movie. The whole 2nd floor contains the trove from King Tut's tomb including his 200lb. solid gold sarcophagus and the famous gold mask. We also saw 12 royal mummies, some pretty gruesome, as well as some animal mummies. One of the queens even had her pet mummified baboon by her side. The new museum opens in 2011 "inshallah" - Egyptian for God willing. Really it is deesperately needed- a crime to keep these priceless treasures as they are now. Sat evening we flew south an hour to Luxor-ancient Thebes- home of the Valley of the Kings.On the way to the airport we stopped at the site of the assassination of Anwar Sadat and his tomb across the street. sad, he held a lot of promise for Egypt. It was 27 years ago, doesn't seem that long.
Luxor
We are staying in the Winter Palace Hotel, the "grande dame" of Luxor and the nicest hotel in this city of 200,000. We have a large balcony with rattan chairs overlooking the palm garden. Cairo temps are cool compared to here. Today the temp is 116. Somehow, though I was very careful, I have developed the Pharoah's Revenge aka Mummy's Tummy. Fortunately I was able to get a magical Egyptian potion- Antinal- which seems to be helping. This AM we spent the day at the Karnak Temple- remember Johnny Carson? I cannot say too much because I was overwhelmed by the heat, feeling ill,etc. I learned a bit about the Pharoahs but pretty sure I won't remember much. This afternoon we rested beside the pools with some of our new friends.They actually have to cool the water. The pool is 79, outside 110.
By 5:30 the temp had cooled to 102 with occasional breezes off the Nile. An hour tour of the Temple of Luxor was enough to "temple us out" for the day. Some guy in a tunic singled Bert out and spirited him away to a hieroglyphic wall indicating that he would get a special blessing by touching his hand to his head and then the wall 14 times. This info cost him 1 egyptian pound- 18 cents. Cheap price for good luck.
In other news, we signed up for a hot air balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings in 2 days. Already I am a wreck but we paid for it so I am going this time. Our wake up call is for 4AM for a breakfast at a farm village on the other side of the Nile so I am off to bed.
After lunch we toured the Egyptian Museum. The most extraordinary artifacts stored in an unairconditioned 110 year old building that looks like something from an Indiana Jones movie. The whole 2nd floor contains the trove from King Tut's tomb including his 200lb. solid gold sarcophagus and the famous gold mask. We also saw 12 royal mummies, some pretty gruesome, as well as some animal mummies. One of the queens even had her pet mummified baboon by her side. The new museum opens in 2011 "inshallah" - Egyptian for God willing. Really it is deesperately needed- a crime to keep these priceless treasures as they are now. Sat evening we flew south an hour to Luxor-ancient Thebes- home of the Valley of the Kings.On the way to the airport we stopped at the site of the assassination of Anwar Sadat and his tomb across the street. sad, he held a lot of promise for Egypt. It was 27 years ago, doesn't seem that long.
Luxor
We are staying in the Winter Palace Hotel, the "grande dame" of Luxor and the nicest hotel in this city of 200,000. We have a large balcony with rattan chairs overlooking the palm garden. Cairo temps are cool compared to here. Today the temp is 116. Somehow, though I was very careful, I have developed the Pharoah's Revenge aka Mummy's Tummy. Fortunately I was able to get a magical Egyptian potion- Antinal- which seems to be helping. This AM we spent the day at the Karnak Temple- remember Johnny Carson? I cannot say too much because I was overwhelmed by the heat, feeling ill,etc. I learned a bit about the Pharoahs but pretty sure I won't remember much. This afternoon we rested beside the pools with some of our new friends.They actually have to cool the water. The pool is 79, outside 110.
By 5:30 the temp had cooled to 102 with occasional breezes off the Nile. An hour tour of the Temple of Luxor was enough to "temple us out" for the day. Some guy in a tunic singled Bert out and spirited him away to a hieroglyphic wall indicating that he would get a special blessing by touching his hand to his head and then the wall 14 times. This info cost him 1 egyptian pound- 18 cents. Cheap price for good luck.
In other news, we signed up for a hot air balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings in 2 days. Already I am a wreck but we paid for it so I am going this time. Our wake up call is for 4AM for a breakfast at a farm village on the other side of the Nile so I am off to bed.
Egypt June 27-29,2008
Going to Egypt in the summer is a little crazy- no that isn't the right word- maybe insane. But here we are on another OAT trip with 18 fellow crazies. We all fell prey to the extraordinary low prices and great value. Nonsto to Cairo from JFK- 3 hours on runway then 10 more in the air. I have never seen so much luggage anytime,anywhere. The few Americans on the plane basically had little more than backpacks, but the Egyptians! Each and every one had the most gigantic cases imaginable. Even the 20 babies had them. I really feared wo wouldn,t get off the ground. However, cramped and old he plane, we did make it.
First night in Heliopoulos in a beautifully landscaped hotel near the airport on the edge of the desert. After too short a sleep we rose tofollow our leader Ghadda to Cairo 20 miles away. 18 million live in this 1000 year old city. We toured 2 17th century homes- not really typical as the had 100 rooms each/ Women lived in the harems unseen by the men. Tiny airless rooms. Did I mention the heat? OMG- in the 90s, sultry, dusty. A busy ancient city with too many cars and smog. Still though, there are donkeys and horsecarts. Back later off to the temple!
First night in Heliopoulos in a beautifully landscaped hotel near the airport on the edge of the desert. After too short a sleep we rose tofollow our leader Ghadda to Cairo 20 miles away. 18 million live in this 1000 year old city. We toured 2 17th century homes- not really typical as the had 100 rooms each/ Women lived in the harems unseen by the men. Tiny airless rooms. Did I mention the heat? OMG- in the 90s, sultry, dusty. A busy ancient city with too many cars and smog. Still though, there are donkeys and horsecarts. Back later off to the temple!
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Ponta Delgado, San Miguel, Azores, April 22, 2008
We couldn't just go straight home without stopping to see this lovely island. Sata Air flies directly to Boston through the Azores so I arranged to have a 9 hour layover. I had rented a car and came prepared with a map. What I wasn't prepared for was the beauty of this island out in the middle of the Atlantic, one of about 8 that belong to Portugal. Ponta Delgado is the capital and about 3 miles from the airport. The island can be covered in a day or two but ideally a few days to savor would have been better. We saw few, if any, hotels and no tourists. It is lush green with a riot of flowers everywhere. Hydrangeas of many different colors grow wild. The eastern side of the island contains the collapsed volcano that gave birth to San Miguel .We walked around the bubbling hot springs and vents. There were large cooking pots in several of them. The locals use the vents to cook their stews- nature's crock pot. There seemed to just be a slower pace to life here. It reminded me of Ireland 25 years ago. We watched as a farmer hitched his horse to the milk wagon to bring his jugs to market. He must have thought we were crazy as we kept snapping his picture. As we were driving we came upon a herd of cows moseying along. There were hundreds of them blocking the road. I honestly think there are more cows here than people. We found ourselves thinking that this was like the garden of Eden. One of our favorite stops on a trip which was so diverse.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Lisbon, April 20-22, 2008
After leaving our new friends on the Rotterdam- many went on 12 more days to Athens- we checked into a modest- that's being kind- Lisbon hotel. The location, however was excellent. We were in the very old section next to the Gloria elevator- an ancient yellow tram that just goes up the steep street and then back down- probably a 45 degree angle. The highlight the first day was the Gulbenkian Museum. Mr G, donated his vast private art collection to Lisbon 50 years ago. Everthing from ancient Roman and Egyptian artifacts to Renoirs, Monets, Degas and Lalique with a little of everything in between from coins to rugs, silver and furniture. Three museum buildings, very modern and situated in several acres in the north center of the city. There were ponds, flowering trees, paths and sculptures. Peaceful and serene ,it was a real find. We even ran into some of our former shipmates on the street.
The next AM we took the train about 40 minutes northwest to the village of Sintra. This was the site where the elite of Portugal built their palaces and castles. For a few euros we took the bus to the main attractions. First, the Moorish Fortress which overlooks the city from high overhead. We climbed the walls to see the magnificent valley and gazed over to the ocean. We then hopped back on the bus going even higher on a winding and twisting one lane, one way road to the Pena Palace. This was the summer palace of the Portugese kings reminiscent of Neuschwanstein in Bavaria. It sits 1500 feet up on the top of a mountain. Very colorful and more tiles than could be imagined. Portugal is justly famous for its gorgeous tiles called "azuelos". They adorn everything , walls, floors, ceilings, even streets.
After touring the many rooms we descended via the bus to the village. There we had to see one more palace, the National Palace of Sintra. Again the tiles were stunning. I especially was taken with the swan room. It was a huge ballroom or hall probably 80 feet long and the ceiling were covered with various designs of swans. There was also a room which was totally tiled with the family crests of the 86 ruling familes of Portugal. The kitchen area concluded the tour and had 2 gigantic smoke chimneys for ventilation. By this time we were palaced out and after a nice lunch we took the train back to Lisbon to get ready for the flight home in the AM.
The next AM we took the train about 40 minutes northwest to the village of Sintra. This was the site where the elite of Portugal built their palaces and castles. For a few euros we took the bus to the main attractions. First, the Moorish Fortress which overlooks the city from high overhead. We climbed the walls to see the magnificent valley and gazed over to the ocean. We then hopped back on the bus going even higher on a winding and twisting one lane, one way road to the Pena Palace. This was the summer palace of the Portugese kings reminiscent of Neuschwanstein in Bavaria. It sits 1500 feet up on the top of a mountain. Very colorful and more tiles than could be imagined. Portugal is justly famous for its gorgeous tiles called "azuelos". They adorn everything , walls, floors, ceilings, even streets.
After touring the many rooms we descended via the bus to the village. There we had to see one more palace, the National Palace of Sintra. Again the tiles were stunning. I especially was taken with the swan room. It was a huge ballroom or hall probably 80 feet long and the ceiling were covered with various designs of swans. There was also a room which was totally tiled with the family crests of the 86 ruling familes of Portugal. The kitchen area concluded the tour and had 2 gigantic smoke chimneys for ventilation. By this time we were palaced out and after a nice lunch we took the train back to Lisbon to get ready for the flight home in the AM.
Cadiz, Spain April 19,2008
Cadiz is the oldest permanently inhabited city in the western world. The ruins go back to the Phoenicians. It is just beautiful and very well set up for tourists though they get few.To get around you can follow different colored lines depending on your interests- like the Freedom Trail in Boston. We enjoyed the 2000 years old Roman amphitheater . Discovered about 25 years ago, its subterranean gallery is virtually unchanged in millenia. The streets of Cadiz are medieval narrow with balconies and lead to plazas every few hundred feet. The obligatory churches and cathedral. A great city museum. Really a great unheralded city located west of Gibraltar. And the best part- they sell TAB!!! Gotta love Spain! Tomorrow Lisbon and off the ship.
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Rabat, Morocco April 18, 2008
After a day at sea we landed in Casablanca. This as a giant modern city of 4 million with little to see other than the Hassan II Mosque. It being Friday, the Islamic sabbath, it was mostly closed. Instead we hopped on the train to Rabat, the nation's capital. We sprang for 1st class tickets though 2nd didn't seem too bad. Many other passengers, seeing us, decided to come along. Unfortunately, at first, it was raining in Rabat. Along with 2 other couples we walked to the King's (Mohammed VI) Palace but only got to the door- no visitors. The guards were colorful and the grounds looked interesting and ornate, fountains, trees, etc. Three of us were able to get a petit taxi while Bert and I and Tim schlepped through the rain about 3 miles to the Hassan Tower. The sun came out as we got there and it became a glorious day. Opposite the 12th century tower is the mausoleum and the white onyx crpyt of the past 2 kings. The cupola was covered in gold. We looked down from an interior balcony watched over by 4 guards in beautiful green uniforms. Outside the gates, 2 guards on white horses stood sentry wearing flowing robes that were very active in the wind.
On our own we made our way along the river to the ancient Kasbah. This is the original city, 500 meters square and 2000 years old. Tiny alleys every which way. One story buildings, the lower 3 feet painted deep blue while the upper areas are blazing white. We entered a rug making school and the young woman there showed me how to make a pile rug. Her hands were as fast as a machine tying the yarn and cutting it. We did buy a rug on the way back to the Gare in the medina.That was an experience but we each got the kiss kiss at the end of the transaction. I noticed that the businessmen on the streets traditionally greet each other with 4 kisses, 2 each cheek so they are doubly as affectionate as the Argentinians. I really liked Rabat. It was clean, organized and I thought of it as Morocco light. I guess the best place to go for the experience would be Marrakesh but that is for another trip.
On our own we made our way along the river to the ancient Kasbah. This is the original city, 500 meters square and 2000 years old. Tiny alleys every which way. One story buildings, the lower 3 feet painted deep blue while the upper areas are blazing white. We entered a rug making school and the young woman there showed me how to make a pile rug. Her hands were as fast as a machine tying the yarn and cutting it. We did buy a rug on the way back to the Gare in the medina.That was an experience but we each got the kiss kiss at the end of the transaction. I noticed that the businessmen on the streets traditionally greet each other with 4 kisses, 2 each cheek so they are doubly as affectionate as the Argentinians. I really liked Rabat. It was clean, organized and I thought of it as Morocco light. I guess the best place to go for the experience would be Marrakesh but that is for another trip.
Lanzarote,Canary Islands April 16, 2008
This is another island in the chain. It is totally volcanic. Other than some palm trees it is pretty barren.Every house on the island is some form of rectangle and white. Really. Every building on this good sized island is white, save 2 renegades. We rented a car again and drove all over.
El Golfo was a yellow green lagoon set against black lava cliffs rising a few hundred feet on each side. Everywhere we drove we saw collapsed cone dormant volcanoes. Each village was similar- doors and windows either blue or green with those white stucco box houses. Few gardens unless they were cactus.
We stopped to watch the tour busses send their myriad passengers on camel rides for 20 minutes up and down the hill. One person on each side in a basket swing. They all loved it. We did not participate as there was such a crowd- probably a hundred camels. Towards the end of of our drive we stopped at Mirador de Rio. A 500 ft cliff overlooking Graciosa Island a short distance away. The sea turned every color of blue and turquoise and aqua depending on the overhead cloud formations. A lovely way to end the visit.
El Golfo was a yellow green lagoon set against black lava cliffs rising a few hundred feet on each side. Everywhere we drove we saw collapsed cone dormant volcanoes. Each village was similar- doors and windows either blue or green with those white stucco box houses. Few gardens unless they were cactus.
We stopped to watch the tour busses send their myriad passengers on camel rides for 20 minutes up and down the hill. One person on each side in a basket swing. They all loved it. We did not participate as there was such a crowd- probably a hundred camels. Towards the end of of our drive we stopped at Mirador de Rio. A 500 ft cliff overlooking Graciosa Island a short distance away. The sea turned every color of blue and turquoise and aqua depending on the overhead cloud formations. A lovely way to end the visit.
Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain April 15, 2008
Tenerife is one of 7 Canary Islands which are really the tips of hundreds of volcanoes about 100 miles off Morocco. This island is triangular shaped and about 30 by 50 miles. The population is about 700,000. We debarked in Santa Cruz and immediately felt at home. It is a modern and efficient city and I could undertand the Spanish. We rented a car and drove much of the island. We passed villas and houses clinging to the cliffs. Little of the island is flat. It rises ultimately to 12000 foot Mt Teide which is the highest peak in Spain and 3rd largest volcano in the world. Roads were excellent. We had a Citroen C3- small but cool car which unfortunately had a bad front wheel cylinder or brake -not sure. The road to the mountain is steep and constantly hairpins. We saw every kind of rock formation and miles of lava fields. It was harrowing coming back down. The sea was nearly always visible. Trees flowering in bright reds and purples contrasting with homes which are boxy shaped and cantaloupe, bright yellow or ochre in color. What made it extra special was the bluest sky- no pollution. I could see why people move here. The Canary Islands are deemed the most pleasant place on earth to live. I could see why.
Dakar, Senegal, Sunday April 13, 2008
A new day, a new country. Senegal completely wraps around Gambia and seems a little more prosperous, at least in Dakar. Dakar is a very large city with new tall buildings- one of the largest in Africa. We opted, however, for a ferry to Ile de Goree. This is a 38 acre island, 2 miles off the coast of Dakar. We were able to pay with dollars as long as we rounded up to $35 - from $32- no singles. Dollars are just not popular anymore. You know things are bad when even the poorest Africans refuse them. Anyway a nice scam for the ticket guy. Several of us from the ship went over. The island itself is known as the holding area for the slaves prior to being shipped to the New World. There is a museum depicting this and tours of the tiny cells in which they imprisoned and tortured these poor souls.
On the brighter side the island is an oasis of absolutely stunning beauty. Most of the buildings are restored and painted deep shades of red, ochre, yellows and greens. There are no vehicles of any kind. One thousand people live there. Although they tend to pester tourists, they are easier to dissuade than in The Gambia and Dakar itself. We wandered the quiet peaceful streets admiring the flowers and art work. The fort museum was interesting and afforded views over the rest of the island. Lots of goats and small cats live here. They just wander around like us.
The highlight for me was following the sound of an angelic choir coming from the Catholic church. Entering it at the back, we were in time for Communion- men on the left, ladies on the right. All were dressed in their finest batik clothes including headdresses. The littlest children sat in a group up front. Perfectly behaved. They were blessed after Communion by the priest. The choir, though, was so beautiful it brought tears to my eyes. Here are these people, living in a very predominately Muslim country, poor but so proud, really celebrating their faith. I need to see things like this periodically.
After the return on the ferry, we had 2 hours to get to the ship. After walking the streets constantly bombarded by hustlers- called bumsters here- Bert decided to return. I continued to walk on my own looking for an open internet place. It was a bit harrowing at times but I just tried to ignore the bumsters. Frequently a man would just walk alongside me at my shoulder saying nothing. There were few others on the streets because it was Sunday. Finally I found the ship. I tried to buy a few sodas but no one would accept dollars and I certainly did not have CFAs (their money). In the end I wandered into the medina (probably not smart) and literally 4 men helped me do the sale. French and Woloof are the languages here -neither one I am fluent in or even have a few words. I was relieved to return to the mothership.
Africa was interesting but I met no one during the past few days who felt a burning desire to return. It wasn't the poverty to me, rather the difference of boundary limits that these folks have. They stand so close and keep touching in a familiar way even though they do not know us. I am not used to that and it felt threatening. As I said interesting but no pangs at leaving and no plans to return.
On the brighter side the island is an oasis of absolutely stunning beauty. Most of the buildings are restored and painted deep shades of red, ochre, yellows and greens. There are no vehicles of any kind. One thousand people live there. Although they tend to pester tourists, they are easier to dissuade than in The Gambia and Dakar itself. We wandered the quiet peaceful streets admiring the flowers and art work. The fort museum was interesting and afforded views over the rest of the island. Lots of goats and small cats live here. They just wander around like us.
The highlight for me was following the sound of an angelic choir coming from the Catholic church. Entering it at the back, we were in time for Communion- men on the left, ladies on the right. All were dressed in their finest batik clothes including headdresses. The littlest children sat in a group up front. Perfectly behaved. They were blessed after Communion by the priest. The choir, though, was so beautiful it brought tears to my eyes. Here are these people, living in a very predominately Muslim country, poor but so proud, really celebrating their faith. I need to see things like this periodically.
After the return on the ferry, we had 2 hours to get to the ship. After walking the streets constantly bombarded by hustlers- called bumsters here- Bert decided to return. I continued to walk on my own looking for an open internet place. It was a bit harrowing at times but I just tried to ignore the bumsters. Frequently a man would just walk alongside me at my shoulder saying nothing. There were few others on the streets because it was Sunday. Finally I found the ship. I tried to buy a few sodas but no one would accept dollars and I certainly did not have CFAs (their money). In the end I wandered into the medina (probably not smart) and literally 4 men helped me do the sale. French and Woloof are the languages here -neither one I am fluent in or even have a few words. I was relieved to return to the mothership.
Africa was interesting but I met no one during the past few days who felt a burning desire to return. It wasn't the poverty to me, rather the difference of boundary limits that these folks have. They stand so close and keep touching in a familiar way even though they do not know us. I am not used to that and it felt threatening. As I said interesting but no pangs at leaving and no plans to return.
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Gambia Part 2
This may be a bit confusing. I an writing this from Cadiz, Spain and the keyboard is so worn out that the letters are gone and I have to remember where they are from memory and it is driving me crazy. Tomorrow we leave the ship in Lisbon and are on our own for 3 days.
Lamiñ Lodge is an eco friendly all wood restaurant in the middle of a mangrove swamp. Green velvet monkeys roam freely and will steal the food, your camera and water whenever they can. A man stands near the table with a stick to warn them. They are, however, cheeky and adorable. The restaurant, reached by a long rickety bridge was equally as shaky in structure. The floor over the swamp was half 4 inch logs nailed together with spaces big enough to see the water beneath or some sand. At one point during lunch one of the monkeys reached his hand up between the slats and grabbed my sandal. After lunch we took a short dugout canoe ride paddled by 2 men , each named Abraham.Abraham1 asked Bert to send him to dental school. He politely declined.
On the way back to Banjul we made one last stop at a croc park noted for its miraculous waters- fertility- no thanks. There we met, pet and posed for pictures with Charlie- world's tamest croc. I guess he is but, to be honest, after I pet him I walked a few feet away to take a picture and he made a quick turn and started towards me. For about 10 seconds I panicked as there was a tree blocking my escape. His mouth was open but fortunately he stopped about 3 feet away and I ducked under the tree and away. We said goodby to The Gambia- and I mean goodbye!. It is apparently the 4th poorest country on earth. Little to recommend it other than a warm-hot climate. Maybe they can make a go of tourism but they will have to pick up a lot of garbage and put in sewers rather than use the streets.
Lamiñ Lodge is an eco friendly all wood restaurant in the middle of a mangrove swamp. Green velvet monkeys roam freely and will steal the food, your camera and water whenever they can. A man stands near the table with a stick to warn them. They are, however, cheeky and adorable. The restaurant, reached by a long rickety bridge was equally as shaky in structure. The floor over the swamp was half 4 inch logs nailed together with spaces big enough to see the water beneath or some sand. At one point during lunch one of the monkeys reached his hand up between the slats and grabbed my sandal. After lunch we took a short dugout canoe ride paddled by 2 men , each named Abraham.Abraham1 asked Bert to send him to dental school. He politely declined.
On the way back to Banjul we made one last stop at a croc park noted for its miraculous waters- fertility- no thanks. There we met, pet and posed for pictures with Charlie- world's tamest croc. I guess he is but, to be honest, after I pet him I walked a few feet away to take a picture and he made a quick turn and started towards me. For about 10 seconds I panicked as there was a tree blocking my escape. His mouth was open but fortunately he stopped about 3 feet away and I ducked under the tree and away. We said goodby to The Gambia- and I mean goodbye!. It is apparently the 4th poorest country on earth. Little to recommend it other than a warm-hot climate. Maybe they can make a go of tourism but they will have to pick up a lot of garbage and put in sewers rather than use the streets.
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
The Gambia April 12, 2008
My first time in Africa. The Gambia is a finger shaped country-formerly British, which is 60 miles wide and 350 miles long. It is bisected by the wide Gambia River which is their life force. The 1 million people have no natural resources, are the 4th poorest nation in the world. Although English is the national language, they speak to each other in one of 8 tribal dialects primarily Wollof and Mandika. We learned "Wow" is "yes" and "didit" is no. We were also warned not to say "can I take your photo". Why? Because "photo" means a man´s private parts! That said you still have to ask because they do believe in animus and feel you are stealing their souls with each "photo".
The women wear gorgeous full length "boubous" with a matching headdress. They carry their babies wrapped to their back and carry whatever they need on their heads. The men wear either trousers with a colorful tunic or a full length tunic and a fez. The children wear similar things except for the kids we saw in uniforms.
We took a tour with about 20 other passengers on a converted open air army truck. Our guide was Abdullah and we had 2 guards for the 14 on our truck. Gambia is desperately poor and though not violent, the children and some men will crowd right into you in a swarm. It was a little uncomfortable until I learned not to be so polite and just said no or didit loudly or "don,t touch me". We rode along the coast- only 3-4 hotels, none higher than2-3 stories- to a fishing village. There were hundreds of people there involved in emptying 25 foot long open air boats of their catches- barracudas, snapper, etc. The boys swim out beyond the waves and carry back baskets of fish on their heads. The crowd parts as they run up to the scales. The fish are then sold. The small ones dried and salted in large barns heated by the wood gathered outside. This is the country's primary business besides peanuts.
There were so many children today because the Gambian president and that of Sierra Leone were due to pass by on the road and they were duty bound to line the way with flags and cheers. We missed them by a few minutes. The rode we drove on for 40 miles is the only paved road in the country. We shared it with donkey carts and goats and not too much else. Only 2 to 3 traffic lights in the Gambia.
Following the fishing village we went off road to Lamin Lodge. This entailed a bumpy dirty road occasionally with branches so low the fruit dropped into our laps. I got a lime , Klaus next to me got a mango! Bert just came in. I am posting this from Tenerife in the Canaries and we are due back at the ship. Will finish the story next time I can find an internet. Love to read your comments, makes me a little homesick, Love to everyone!
The women wear gorgeous full length "boubous" with a matching headdress. They carry their babies wrapped to their back and carry whatever they need on their heads. The men wear either trousers with a colorful tunic or a full length tunic and a fez. The children wear similar things except for the kids we saw in uniforms.
We took a tour with about 20 other passengers on a converted open air army truck. Our guide was Abdullah and we had 2 guards for the 14 on our truck. Gambia is desperately poor and though not violent, the children and some men will crowd right into you in a swarm. It was a little uncomfortable until I learned not to be so polite and just said no or didit loudly or "don,t touch me". We rode along the coast- only 3-4 hotels, none higher than2-3 stories- to a fishing village. There were hundreds of people there involved in emptying 25 foot long open air boats of their catches- barracudas, snapper, etc. The boys swim out beyond the waves and carry back baskets of fish on their heads. The crowd parts as they run up to the scales. The fish are then sold. The small ones dried and salted in large barns heated by the wood gathered outside. This is the country's primary business besides peanuts.
There were so many children today because the Gambian president and that of Sierra Leone were due to pass by on the road and they were duty bound to line the way with flags and cheers. We missed them by a few minutes. The rode we drove on for 40 miles is the only paved road in the country. We shared it with donkey carts and goats and not too much else. Only 2 to 3 traffic lights in the Gambia.
Following the fishing village we went off road to Lamin Lodge. This entailed a bumpy dirty road occasionally with branches so low the fruit dropped into our laps. I got a lime , Klaus next to me got a mango! Bert just came in. I am posting this from Tenerife in the Canaries and we are due back at the ship. Will finish the story next time I can find an internet. Love to read your comments, makes me a little homesick, Love to everyone!
At sea April 9-11
It takes 3 days to cross from Brazil to the Gambia. There is a traditional ceremony when you sail across the Equator for the first time. On the Rotterdam this trip there were about 20 crew members initiated from being "pollywogs" to "mariners". King Neptune made an appearance and he commanded that each of them kiss a fish- 100 lb snappers on the pool deck. Then they were slathered with gooey slime and floured and judged by the Captain and the crowd whether to be dunked in the pool or "spared". It was very funny- luckily one passenger volunteered for all the rest of us and we were all pardoned.
We spent the 3 days reading, talking with other passengers, attending lectures, etc. It is a wonderful peaceful way to live. We crossed the actual Equator-0 latitude- at 12:30 AM April 10. Bert and I went out on deck to see if there was actually a line- kidding! There was a lady however who pulled out a cell phone and called someone at home to share the event. Imagine calling home from the Equator in the middle of the ocean. Each of the 3 nights at sea we move the clocks ahead an hour so we are having 23 hour days. An easy way to avoid jet lag but it messes up my circadian rhythm. Im a 24 hour a day girl.
We spent the 3 days reading, talking with other passengers, attending lectures, etc. It is a wonderful peaceful way to live. We crossed the actual Equator-0 latitude- at 12:30 AM April 10. Bert and I went out on deck to see if there was actually a line- kidding! There was a lady however who pulled out a cell phone and called someone at home to share the event. Imagine calling home from the Equator in the middle of the ocean. Each of the 3 nights at sea we move the clocks ahead an hour so we are having 23 hour days. An easy way to avoid jet lag but it messes up my circadian rhythm. Im a 24 hour a day girl.
Recife, Brazil April 8, 2008
This was our last stop in Brazil. Giant city , over a million people. Brazil has 200 million with 150 million living on its coasts. The downtown is like any other- large, tall buildings intertwined with old churches and market squres, called pracas. We took the shuttle bus to the centro and then found a city bus to our day´s destination- Olinda. Olinda sits up on the hill about 6 miles north . The eastern part right on the ocean. It was settled by the Portugese. The streets are as steep as is physically possible to drive- narrow and , of course ,all cobble stone. The Cathedral de Se sits on the very top- sort of ugly- but a million dollar view through the thick jungle with sweet songed birds and multi-hued flowers looking down to the city of Recife and the turquoise Atlantic. We basically wandered the streets for a few hours gaping at the pastel colored houses. We went through every art gallery but never saw a painting that was "the one", It was hot and humid but so pleasant. Again not a soul spoke a word of English and almost no Spanish. They just do not get many tourists here. I really love the palms trees everywhere. The breezes are warm and you can hear Brazilian Samba everywhere you go. A municipal bus ride back for a dollar or 2 to the city. We did get kind of lost at that point so had to resort to a taxi for the ride back to the dock. No big deal. No internet though posting this a week late.
Monday, April 7, 2008
Maceio, Brazil
Well today we are up the coast a bit in the city of Maceio. Big sugar cane area. There are men in the streets who take the long canes and run them through a grinder producing a milky sugary drink which they sell. There are many fisherman who pole their boats along the shore hauling in fish big and small in huge nets by hand. There is a reef about a quarter mile off the shore thereby reducing the waves. Not much to do here beyond going to the beach. It is , of course extremely beautiful and the water is the warmest I have ever been in for an ocean. Must have been over 90 degrees. The clouds have left. We sail in a few hours for our last port in Brazil. From there it is 3 days across the ocean to the Gambia. I hope to get in one last post before then.
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Salvador, Bahia, Brazil
Before I write about the ship and this really cool city I want to write about the man we met on the Metro in Rio. He was sitting next to me, older, dressed well and with the deepest voice. He turned to me and said," Do you have concerns?" I answered that I always have concerns but just needed direction re our next stop. We talked a little and then he started to sing a Sinatra song to me. The most beautiful voice! Then he told me that Francis Albert is his god. He had met him in 1980 . Then he launched into a short medley. Unfortunately our stop came but we were tempted to stay on and spend more time with him.
We joined the ship on the 4th. The Rotterdam is quite beautiful and we have met the most interesting passengers. All of them are far better travelled than we and so fascinating. All over the world is represented. Food is wonderful,of course, and even the entertainment. After a day at sea we are now in the port city of Salvador de Bahia. The old part of the city is called the Pelinho and contains literally hundreds of churches. It is still cobbled and all the buildings date from the 17th century and look it. It is pouring alternating with sun. We were greeted by a brilliant rainbow on our arrival. I am writing this entry sitting in an ancient building in the old slave section. The store owners have taken pity on us during the downpours. The streets are narrow and either head up at a 45 degree angle or down at the same. The cobbles are a bit slippery from the rain . Each building is a different color from every pastel imaginable. Overall it gives a very funky appeal. Lots of artists and craftsmen and cafes. No one else here but those of us from the ship and even most of those seemed to have abandoned the area due to the weather. It is about 80 with a similar humidity. At one of the shops we were stranded in, the young shopkeeper insisted on teaching Bert to play the tambourine to a Samba beat while he played another instrument. It was hysterical but a lot of fun. They really seem to be good hearted people. Yes, Doug, we are being cautious but things are going very well. The last thing to mention is that we went into the Franciscan Church. Nearly every single surface was covered in gold. Over 100 kg were used. Was the gaudiest thing you could imagine but.... I thought the franciscans took a vow of poverty. So tomorrow we are off to Maceio and hopefully a day at the beach. I love this internet place. Some guy is out in the street playing Samba instruments and the sun is out! Yeah!
We joined the ship on the 4th. The Rotterdam is quite beautiful and we have met the most interesting passengers. All of them are far better travelled than we and so fascinating. All over the world is represented. Food is wonderful,of course, and even the entertainment. After a day at sea we are now in the port city of Salvador de Bahia. The old part of the city is called the Pelinho and contains literally hundreds of churches. It is still cobbled and all the buildings date from the 17th century and look it. It is pouring alternating with sun. We were greeted by a brilliant rainbow on our arrival. I am writing this entry sitting in an ancient building in the old slave section. The store owners have taken pity on us during the downpours. The streets are narrow and either head up at a 45 degree angle or down at the same. The cobbles are a bit slippery from the rain . Each building is a different color from every pastel imaginable. Overall it gives a very funky appeal. Lots of artists and craftsmen and cafes. No one else here but those of us from the ship and even most of those seemed to have abandoned the area due to the weather. It is about 80 with a similar humidity. At one of the shops we were stranded in, the young shopkeeper insisted on teaching Bert to play the tambourine to a Samba beat while he played another instrument. It was hysterical but a lot of fun. They really seem to be good hearted people. Yes, Doug, we are being cautious but things are going very well. The last thing to mention is that we went into the Franciscan Church. Nearly every single surface was covered in gold. Over 100 kg were used. Was the gaudiest thing you could imagine but.... I thought the franciscans took a vow of poverty. So tomorrow we are off to Maceio and hopefully a day at the beach. I love this internet place. Some guy is out in the street playing Samba instruments and the sun is out! Yeah!
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Rio De Janeiro
It's amazing what a difference 24 hours makes. At 11 AM Tuesday I was in the midst of the seniors in Hebron working. Just 24 hours later I was in a wild cab careening down the streets of Rio at high speeds- missing others by millimeters, brakes squealing, horns blaring. It was like being in the middle of a live action version of the car chase video games.
The driver seemed delighted that he had caused Bert´s heart to palpitate as he rode shotgun. He kept patting him on the back saying something in ?Portugese. No idea what. I have been in Portugal and thought it not too different from Spanish. Not in Brazil. It is really hard to follow and really few people have much English.
We are at the Premier Copacabana Hotel, a moderate 15 story with a spectacular rooftop pool area that overlooks Copacabana and in turn is looked down on by the Christ the Redeemer statue.
We flew Tam Air- lots of delays, somewhat surly staff but we did get here. They are no Thai Air- that´s for sure. At least we don´t have to fly back with them.
Rio seems beautifully situated with the ocean on one side backing up into myriad mountains. Climbing up the sides of these are the favelas- neighborhoods which are really shantytowns. There is presently an outbreak of dengue fever so we cover up. It is also a dangerous city due to the widespread poverty. I wear no jewelry and am very conscious at all times of my surroundings. It is a little nerve wracking but we are only here for a few days and overall the city in so beautiful and unique.
Wed April 3
Up early at breakfast we met a German couple, Hans and Sylvia who will also be on the ship. They, as most others, are taking a formal tour. We, as usual, strike out on our own. We used the Metro and bus to get to Corcovado. This is the site of the massive Cristo Redemptor statue- now one of the 7 wonders of the world. For about 36 Reals or $20 we took a cog railroad to the top of the hill passing through the Tijuca Rainforest. We were among the first there. Unbelievable views! 2329 feet up in the air. The art deco Christ was 98 feet higher. We could see all of Rio- the mts.,bays, beaches. Incredible!
From there we were back on the metro to the Metropolitan Cathedral. The most bizarre church. It looks like a concrete honey-combed beehive with 4 huge stained glass windows culminating in a clear window cross at the top. We were able to attend Mass. These people really get into it- alternately clapping and raising thier hands high- not to mention the kiss of peace.
A short walk took us to Lapa- a favela- and the Sedlaron Escalaria. This is a formerly concrete set of stairs taken over 20 years ago by the artist Sedlaron. He has covered all the walls and step risers with tiles from all over the world. The result is a wild melange of color and shapes. Truly fascinating. Sedlaron himself was working laying some tile today and he took time out for a picture. He lives in a tiny room, wears a red hat and shorts and nothing else. Born in Chile in 1947, he sports a grey ponytail and a warm personality. His present assistant, Angela, is a 20 something beauty from Mexico City who translated for us. He drew a quick sketch for us as a souvenir. A very interesting experience.
We ended our tour at Sugar Loaf. We were fortunate to be befriended by a young businessman who directed us thru the Metro and bus ride telling us of his years in Austin, Tx and what it was like to live in Rio. I survived the cable car to Sugar Loaf. The car flew high over the harbor- 1300 feet. If you know how much I hate heights, you would be very impressed. The payoff was the view from the top. Indescribable. Rio has to be the most beautifully situated city in the world. At the top we got drinks and then listened as the couples near us discussed theirimpemding cruise tomorrow. These 12 people were 4 Dutch and 8 Asian. So we will have a veritable UN on board.
Tonight we ate takeout empanadas on the hotel roof with a warm breeze and soft raindrops. Bert finished his day with a sauna. As I write this in the hotel, the lady next to me is also on the cruise and we are making plans for tomorrow.Please excuse the poor writing. The keyboard is missing many letters.
The driver seemed delighted that he had caused Bert´s heart to palpitate as he rode shotgun. He kept patting him on the back saying something in ?Portugese. No idea what. I have been in Portugal and thought it not too different from Spanish. Not in Brazil. It is really hard to follow and really few people have much English.
We are at the Premier Copacabana Hotel, a moderate 15 story with a spectacular rooftop pool area that overlooks Copacabana and in turn is looked down on by the Christ the Redeemer statue.
We flew Tam Air- lots of delays, somewhat surly staff but we did get here. They are no Thai Air- that´s for sure. At least we don´t have to fly back with them.
Rio seems beautifully situated with the ocean on one side backing up into myriad mountains. Climbing up the sides of these are the favelas- neighborhoods which are really shantytowns. There is presently an outbreak of dengue fever so we cover up. It is also a dangerous city due to the widespread poverty. I wear no jewelry and am very conscious at all times of my surroundings. It is a little nerve wracking but we are only here for a few days and overall the city in so beautiful and unique.
Wed April 3
Up early at breakfast we met a German couple, Hans and Sylvia who will also be on the ship. They, as most others, are taking a formal tour. We, as usual, strike out on our own. We used the Metro and bus to get to Corcovado. This is the site of the massive Cristo Redemptor statue- now one of the 7 wonders of the world. For about 36 Reals or $20 we took a cog railroad to the top of the hill passing through the Tijuca Rainforest. We were among the first there. Unbelievable views! 2329 feet up in the air. The art deco Christ was 98 feet higher. We could see all of Rio- the mts.,bays, beaches. Incredible!
From there we were back on the metro to the Metropolitan Cathedral. The most bizarre church. It looks like a concrete honey-combed beehive with 4 huge stained glass windows culminating in a clear window cross at the top. We were able to attend Mass. These people really get into it- alternately clapping and raising thier hands high- not to mention the kiss of peace.
A short walk took us to Lapa- a favela- and the Sedlaron Escalaria. This is a formerly concrete set of stairs taken over 20 years ago by the artist Sedlaron. He has covered all the walls and step risers with tiles from all over the world. The result is a wild melange of color and shapes. Truly fascinating. Sedlaron himself was working laying some tile today and he took time out for a picture. He lives in a tiny room, wears a red hat and shorts and nothing else. Born in Chile in 1947, he sports a grey ponytail and a warm personality. His present assistant, Angela, is a 20 something beauty from Mexico City who translated for us. He drew a quick sketch for us as a souvenir. A very interesting experience.
We ended our tour at Sugar Loaf. We were fortunate to be befriended by a young businessman who directed us thru the Metro and bus ride telling us of his years in Austin, Tx and what it was like to live in Rio. I survived the cable car to Sugar Loaf. The car flew high over the harbor- 1300 feet. If you know how much I hate heights, you would be very impressed. The payoff was the view from the top. Indescribable. Rio has to be the most beautifully situated city in the world. At the top we got drinks and then listened as the couples near us discussed theirimpemding cruise tomorrow. These 12 people were 4 Dutch and 8 Asian. So we will have a veritable UN on board.
Tonight we ate takeout empanadas on the hotel roof with a warm breeze and soft raindrops. Bert finished his day with a sauna. As I write this in the hotel, the lady next to me is also on the cruise and we are making plans for tomorrow.Please excuse the poor writing. The keyboard is missing many letters.
Friday, March 14, 2008
Tri Continent Journey
We are getting ready for another journey in a few weeks. This time we are off to Rio for a few days and then joining the Rotterdam for a cruise up the coast of Brazil stopping in 3 more ports. From there we cross the equator to Gambia, Senegal, the Canaries, Morocco and on to Cadiz in Spain and disembarking in Lisbon. After a couple of days we fly home via the Azores to Boston. We have our visa for Brazil, malaria pills and typhoid and yellow fever shots. We are ready for anything! This a hard one to get ready for because I do all the research on each port eschewing the ship excursions. Should be interesting in the African ports.
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