We are now on the Katarina Victoria, a 210 passenger riverboat having embarked inYichang just below the great Three Gorges Dam. Our staterooms are compact but have a balcony. The wall between the cabins however are paper thin with bunks on each outer wall. This AM Joan, one of our women remarked that she was sleeping closer to Jim next door than she was to John her S.O. who was across the cabin. We were howling as she recounted how she could hear Jim snoring and she was dying to whisper through the wall to turn over. Jim, travelling solo for his part said he went into his closet and swore there was someone in there until he realized it was John and Joan next door. Honestly nearly every day we laugh until there are tears in our eyes. Such a fun group.
This mornig we visited the dam built over the last 17 years and just about complete. Massive in size with 5 locks to raise and lower river traffic 350 feet. The govt does not charge for this. The 26 generators supply 3%f China's power. The upshot of the damm, of course, is that it raises the river upstream displacing ancient villages and towns- in all about 1.3 million people have been moved to higher ground. For many this is wonderful. They have indoor plumbing for the first time. For the seniors, however it is the end of a way of life to which they cannot reconcile. The mountains along the banks are undulating and mysterious looking in the fog we have today.
Monday, March 30, 2009
March 29
Today a short plane trip with China Southern from Xi'an to Wuhan followed by a 5 hour bus ride to Lichang to meet our river cruise ship. The countryside here is quite flat with many lakes and rice paddies. The farmers plow with water buffalo just as their ancestors did. The fields are bright yellow with canola flowers, mile after mile as far as they eye can see. Sometimes there are pagoda tombstones in the middle of the yellow. Bert says that probably marks the spot the farmer dropped. The small villages are similar to those you see anywhere with a big difference. In other countries that I have visited the center of each village is always the Church or Mosque or some house of worship. Religion here is nearly nonexistent. People will go to a temple and leave offerings but it seems more a superstitious ritual than anything else.
We are looking forward to the Yangtze cruise. the pace of the rip is almost frenetic and we need to recharge for the 2nd half. Nothing has been said about Tibet so we are assuming we won't be able to go. What a shame!
We are looking forward to the Yangtze cruise. the pace of the rip is almost frenetic and we need to recharge for the 2nd half. Nothing has been said about Tibet so we are assuming we won't be able to go. What a shame!
Xi'an pt 2
On Saturday the rain stopped and we climbed the city wall of Xi'an. Forty ft high and 30 ft wide, it encircles the inner city for a length of 11 miles. There are turrets and pagodas all along it. Beautifully preserved. In the afternoon we drove an hour to Hu Xian- a mode village of farmers. We separated into 3 groups to stay with a local family. Madame Gao was a lovely sweet 32 yr old with a husband, 11 yo son who lives with her inlaws. Our room was primitive, the bathroom even more so. After a nice dinner in which we used a lot of sign and body language, she took us to the town square where we were given ornate costumes- yellow for the men and red for the women- and we danced with the villagers for an hour. It was a little surreal to do the bunny hop, macarena and hokey pokey with 100 Chinese women. Kathy, our guide, explains so much about present Chinese life. I feel as though we have learned so much this trip.
Xi'an
The countryside ranges from mountains to terraced plots carved out with tombstones honoring ancestors overlooking the crops. Most of the cultivation seems done by hand here- no animals other than a few goats. houses are small, brick and grouped together.
Xi'an is a city of 8 million with an intact city wall. We are staying st the Xi'an Garden Hotel in a room overlooking a lagoon with a bridge and pagoda patrolled by 2 gorgeous peacocks who call out intermittently during the night. The Wild Goose Pagoda is an area of parks with temples and drum towers dedicated to a monk who went to India and brought back the concepts of Buddhism.
The main attraction here are the terra Cotta Warriors. These were discovered in 1974 by a local farmer who now sits in the gift shop charging 20 yuan per picture. The soldiers stand in 3 different pits, row upon row, nearly 6000 strong with their horses and chariots. All are different. They serve as an army in the afterlife to the Emperor of the Qin dynasty of 200BC. There are a few generals as well as archers, cavalrymen,etc. Everyone is unique. Fabulous! Was a highlight of the tour marred only by the fact that it's pouring and rather cold. The Chinese turn off the heat on March 15 by law so we're out of luck. No heat even on the bus. The sad thing about the warriors is that when they are found- and this is ongoingg, they are beautifully painted in many colors. The air oxydizes the paint and in a short time it fades away. They should find a way to preserve them
Xi'an is a city of 8 million with an intact city wall. We are staying st the Xi'an Garden Hotel in a room overlooking a lagoon with a bridge and pagoda patrolled by 2 gorgeous peacocks who call out intermittently during the night. The Wild Goose Pagoda is an area of parks with temples and drum towers dedicated to a monk who went to India and brought back the concepts of Buddhism.
The main attraction here are the terra Cotta Warriors. These were discovered in 1974 by a local farmer who now sits in the gift shop charging 20 yuan per picture. The soldiers stand in 3 different pits, row upon row, nearly 6000 strong with their horses and chariots. All are different. They serve as an army in the afterlife to the Emperor of the Qin dynasty of 200BC. There are a few generals as well as archers, cavalrymen,etc. Everyone is unique. Fabulous! Was a highlight of the tour marred only by the fact that it's pouring and rather cold. The Chinese turn off the heat on March 15 by law so we're out of luck. No heat even on the bus. The sad thing about the warriors is that when they are found- and this is ongoingg, they are beautifully painted in many colors. The air oxydizes the paint and in a short time it fades away. They should find a way to preserve them
Friday, March 27, 2009
Beijing- Xi'an March 26
Yesterday we walked through the "Hutong" which are the original small alleys of old Beijing. They are rapidly disappearing as "progress" comes to China. The government has started to preserve them however which is fine with the citizens. the houses are 1 story high with a small kitchen, sitting room and bedroom. There are no bathrooms. Though they have electricity and running water the toilet facilities are located on the street about the middle of each block. Must be interesting in the winter. They have always lived like this and the seniors love their homes and resist govt attemts to move them to apartments in the suburbs away from their friends. As many as 1/3 of the population of Beijing livie in the hutong. It is exactly as I pictured Beijing to look. We had lunch with a local woman who makes money on the side hosting small groups in her home. What impressed me was how clean the alleys were and no smell despite the limited sanitary facilities. There are many many small dogs beloved by their owners- many wear coats- and still no droppings anywhere.
At nightfall we got on out train to Xian- 800 miles and 11 hours. each compartment was a 6 by 6 with 4 berthss- toilet at the end of the car. About 10 compartments to a car, so potentially 40 people for one toilet. We had just 2 to a room thenk goodness as I have no idea how we could fit 2 more. Eacg berth had a flat screen TV though only 2 channels and in chinese. Big picture window. This is a vert rowdy group and we all piled into 1 compartment to see how many we could fit in. We were laughing so loudly that a teenage girl came to tell us to be quiet. we then split a bottle of chinese firewater which didn't help the sound level. We settled down around 11. It was hard to sleep but certainly an experience. More soon. Staying in a village the next few days, no internet.
At nightfall we got on out train to Xian- 800 miles and 11 hours. each compartment was a 6 by 6 with 4 berthss- toilet at the end of the car. About 10 compartments to a car, so potentially 40 people for one toilet. We had just 2 to a room thenk goodness as I have no idea how we could fit 2 more. Eacg berth had a flat screen TV though only 2 channels and in chinese. Big picture window. This is a vert rowdy group and we all piled into 1 compartment to see how many we could fit in. We were laughing so loudly that a teenage girl came to tell us to be quiet. we then split a bottle of chinese firewater which didn't help the sound level. We settled down around 11. It was hard to sleep but certainly an experience. More soon. Staying in a village the next few days, no internet.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Beijing part 2
Every AM , indded at any time I can look out the hotal window from the 12th floor and watch the action in the little strip of park across the street. Last night as Chinese opera blared on a loudspeaker a group of women did a fan and ribbon dance in unison for over an hour in near darkness. this AM the ping pong games started at 6AM and continued- women replacing men around 8AM. Meanwhile the metal exercise machines are in constant use and motion.
This morning we struck out on our own. Taking the subway was quite easy. The cars were very modern and only a bit crowded at times. We were the only Caucasians the whole hour causing many to stare. As much of the ride was elevated we saw a bit more of the city. We have yet to see any slums or rundown sections.
Our destination was the Temple of Heaven. A huge park containing a temple to the good harvest 125 ft high- a tall circular building featured in many pictures of China. There were many smaller temples all used by the Emperor to pray for the crops. Sacrifices of animals were done in large green ceramic ovens. The park itself was about a mile square, filled with ancient cypress trees and paths. We saw many magpies- large black and white birds with dark blue heads and very loud cries. Tjhere thousands of people enjoying the cold but clear day. We watched fan dancers, couples dancing to all kiinds of music, ribbon dancers and people who just burst into song as they walked. These people are fascinating to watch. They sometimes will just start waving their arms as the walk or even begin to walk backwards. I greet them with "Ni Hao"- Hello and they are thrilled. Frequently they will ask us to pose with them for a picture. Apparently this is an honor for them.
Tomorrow after a visit to the Hutong- the old Beijing shanty town, we leave on an overnight train to Xi'an. This should be an experience. they are tiny berths, 4 to a section with bathroom (read that as hole in the floor) down the hall. We are hoping to have just the two of us in our section but that may not be possible.
I am glad we got to see Beijing. Yesterday we passed the Olympic venues- the bird's nest and ice cube. They looked more impressive on TV. Beijing was so proud to host the Olympics. It really is a world class city and we have enjoyed our visit.
This morning we struck out on our own. Taking the subway was quite easy. The cars were very modern and only a bit crowded at times. We were the only Caucasians the whole hour causing many to stare. As much of the ride was elevated we saw a bit more of the city. We have yet to see any slums or rundown sections.
Our destination was the Temple of Heaven. A huge park containing a temple to the good harvest 125 ft high- a tall circular building featured in many pictures of China. There were many smaller temples all used by the Emperor to pray for the crops. Sacrifices of animals were done in large green ceramic ovens. The park itself was about a mile square, filled with ancient cypress trees and paths. We saw many magpies- large black and white birds with dark blue heads and very loud cries. Tjhere thousands of people enjoying the cold but clear day. We watched fan dancers, couples dancing to all kiinds of music, ribbon dancers and people who just burst into song as they walked. These people are fascinating to watch. They sometimes will just start waving their arms as the walk or even begin to walk backwards. I greet them with "Ni Hao"- Hello and they are thrilled. Frequently they will ask us to pose with them for a picture. Apparently this is an honor for them.
Tomorrow after a visit to the Hutong- the old Beijing shanty town, we leave on an overnight train to Xi'an. This should be an experience. they are tiny berths, 4 to a section with bathroom (read that as hole in the floor) down the hall. We are hoping to have just the two of us in our section but that may not be possible.
I am glad we got to see Beijing. Yesterday we passed the Olympic venues- the bird's nest and ice cube. They looked more impressive on TV. Beijing was so proud to host the Olympics. It really is a world class city and we have enjoyed our visit.
Monday, March 23, 2009
China
Here we are in china in our quest to see all the world's wonders. Brit obligingly dropped us at the Providence train station- thanksBrit. Always good to start a trip with a train ride. We flew United from Boston to Dulles to Beijing- about 22 hours with the stops. We are again travelling with OAT along with 11 other passengers- 22 days - home by Easter. we received an email informing us that the border with Tibet has been closed. It is the 50th anniversary of the takeover by China and there has been some unrest. We are still hoping to get in as we are scheduled to go there on April 2. We will have an overnight train, several internal flights, overnight in a farmer's house and a panda sanctuary visit.
We finally got into Beijing about 3 hours late. Our plane had mechanical problems in DC and after a long delay we had to get off, switch terminals and reboard another plane. Luckily the plane was 3/4 full. We'd upgraded to economy plus so we had a little extra room and extra seats near us to stretch out. Passed the 14 hours reading, watching movies and snoozing. Worst airplane food I've ever had.
Beijing airport is just a year old due to the Olympics. It was clean, modern and efficient. Though it was just 4:30 when we arrived, it was nearly dark- pollution. Quite honestly I've never seen anything like it. The air appears greenish gray and not just in the sky. It is pervasive. Stephen, our local guide met us at the airport and told us to pray for wind.
We're staying at a Chinese businessman's hotel- the Inlodge. The room is also clean, efficient and modern. So is Beijing for that matter. Our window overlooks a park where we watch the locals do Tai Chi,play ping pong and sing, exercise and rollerblade. Beijing is not what I expected. It is really a nice city. Many new buildings,quiet traffic, friendly people.. If they can just clean their air.
Sunday March 21, 2008
Trying to adjust to a 12 hour time change, we slept well and this AM met the rest of our group.13 in all- age range 57 (me) to mid 70s. Mostly single, 8 woman, 5 male. Our tour leader is Kathy, real name Wong something in Chinese.
We spent the morning in Tian an Men square. It is much like Red Square in Moscow- government buildings, memorials,Chairman Mao's tomb- closed for renovation. didn't get to see him! Acroos the street is the Forbidden City. So named because it was the home of the Emperors from the 14th to the 20th century and the commoners were never allowed. It consists of acres of low slung red brick buildings with yellow tile roofs. It is laid out in a pattern of squares "rings". You enter each through an ornately painted building gate with 5 entrances- the middle only used by the Emperor himself. It was interesting but not as impressive as I thought it would be. Obviously spruced up for the Olympics, there are nointeriors to visit. In the concubine section you could look through windows at very dusty furniture and beds. There are no trees except fpr the Imperial Garden which was very eerie with its limestone figures and ancient cypresses and dragon trees.
We finished the day with a Peking duck dinner served at a huge round table with an equally huge lazy susan. It is a bit hard to serve yourself as someone seems to move the susan just as you are grabbing your food. Especially difficult since we are just getting to know eacg other. the group, though, is quite fun and boisterous at times which is great.
March 22 Beijing
We started our day with a visit to a cloissonne factory. Fascinating to watch these women add strips of copper to a copper vase, then add pigments and paints. then they are fired up to 6 times and sanded for hours. We had a chance top try our hand. Herbie, our guide deemed mine one of the best- a bird in a tree- and I won a pair of cloissonne chopsticks.
A further half hour drive took us to the Great Wall in the north in the mountains. The Badaling section is a gigantic tourist trap with hundreds of busses and many thousands of tourists jostling each other for their trip. To avoid this the OAT people took us further to another section which is not developed as yet. We were vitually the only ones there. Climbed over a thousand steps to the top. Everyone in our original group made it to the top, apparently a first. It was really strenuous but we were proud of ourselves and took lots of pictures. Goi ng back down was hard on the knees. theweather was beautiful. the wind had cleard the air and we couls see very clearly for miles. The wall just goes on forever- 4000 miles in fact. Most of it is undeveloped and unrestored.
We had lunch in the village with a local farmers wife. I am getting good eating with chopsticks. In fact I did not use my fork at all. Lunch consisted of rice, cabbage soup, beans, garlic sprouts, tofu, peanuts, sugar glazed potatoes. I am missing meat but the Chinese rarely eat meat.
We finally got into Beijing about 3 hours late. Our plane had mechanical problems in DC and after a long delay we had to get off, switch terminals and reboard another plane. Luckily the plane was 3/4 full. We'd upgraded to economy plus so we had a little extra room and extra seats near us to stretch out. Passed the 14 hours reading, watching movies and snoozing. Worst airplane food I've ever had.
Beijing airport is just a year old due to the Olympics. It was clean, modern and efficient. Though it was just 4:30 when we arrived, it was nearly dark- pollution. Quite honestly I've never seen anything like it. The air appears greenish gray and not just in the sky. It is pervasive. Stephen, our local guide met us at the airport and told us to pray for wind.
We're staying at a Chinese businessman's hotel- the Inlodge. The room is also clean, efficient and modern. So is Beijing for that matter. Our window overlooks a park where we watch the locals do Tai Chi,play ping pong and sing, exercise and rollerblade. Beijing is not what I expected. It is really a nice city. Many new buildings,quiet traffic, friendly people.. If they can just clean their air.
Sunday March 21, 2008
Trying to adjust to a 12 hour time change, we slept well and this AM met the rest of our group.13 in all- age range 57 (me) to mid 70s. Mostly single, 8 woman, 5 male. Our tour leader is Kathy, real name Wong something in Chinese.
We spent the morning in Tian an Men square. It is much like Red Square in Moscow- government buildings, memorials,Chairman Mao's tomb- closed for renovation. didn't get to see him! Acroos the street is the Forbidden City. So named because it was the home of the Emperors from the 14th to the 20th century and the commoners were never allowed. It consists of acres of low slung red brick buildings with yellow tile roofs. It is laid out in a pattern of squares "rings". You enter each through an ornately painted building gate with 5 entrances- the middle only used by the Emperor himself. It was interesting but not as impressive as I thought it would be. Obviously spruced up for the Olympics, there are nointeriors to visit. In the concubine section you could look through windows at very dusty furniture and beds. There are no trees except fpr the Imperial Garden which was very eerie with its limestone figures and ancient cypresses and dragon trees.
We finished the day with a Peking duck dinner served at a huge round table with an equally huge lazy susan. It is a bit hard to serve yourself as someone seems to move the susan just as you are grabbing your food. Especially difficult since we are just getting to know eacg other. the group, though, is quite fun and boisterous at times which is great.
March 22 Beijing
We started our day with a visit to a cloissonne factory. Fascinating to watch these women add strips of copper to a copper vase, then add pigments and paints. then they are fired up to 6 times and sanded for hours. We had a chance top try our hand. Herbie, our guide deemed mine one of the best- a bird in a tree- and I won a pair of cloissonne chopsticks.
A further half hour drive took us to the Great Wall in the north in the mountains. The Badaling section is a gigantic tourist trap with hundreds of busses and many thousands of tourists jostling each other for their trip. To avoid this the OAT people took us further to another section which is not developed as yet. We were vitually the only ones there. Climbed over a thousand steps to the top. Everyone in our original group made it to the top, apparently a first. It was really strenuous but we were proud of ourselves and took lots of pictures. Goi ng back down was hard on the knees. theweather was beautiful. the wind had cleard the air and we couls see very clearly for miles. The wall just goes on forever- 4000 miles in fact. Most of it is undeveloped and unrestored.
We had lunch in the village with a local farmers wife. I am getting good eating with chopsticks. In fact I did not use my fork at all. Lunch consisted of rice, cabbage soup, beans, garlic sprouts, tofu, peanuts, sugar glazed potatoes. I am missing meat but the Chinese rarely eat meat.
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