Santarem April 7, 2010

Santarem is a small city halfway between Belem amd Manaus about 5000 miles up the river away from the ocean. So far the best day of the trip. I had hired a private guide for this port. Paulo Coelho is a 44 year old Ximango Indian who lived in the jungle until he was 12. At that time he left the village to join his brothers in Santarem. Saw a school for the first time. Now self taught he speaks 4 languages, can tell you any bird, tree or plant. we were a group of 6- I had invited Deborah and Mike McKenna and Peter and Peg Martin- and were enthralled by his enthusiam for and animated delivery of his work.

After a short taxi through Santarem we boarded a small riverboat amd climbed to the top. the sun was tempered by fluffy white clouds and not too hot We motored with a crew of 4-5 past the meeting of the waters of the Tapajo River, rather clear and blue and the Amazon whch is brown. they differ in temp, density and velocity and run side by side for 4 miles before merging.

We saw almost 40 kinds of birds- every color and size from toucans and snowy egrets to anis, caracaras, hawks, parrots. We saw iguanas swimming ans sloths. After an hour during which time we were served fruits, nuts and water, we transferred to a small canoe paddled by Alec, a young teen Indian and Paulo.

going to end this now as a long line to use internet and I feel guilty, will continue soon, thanks for comments

Macapa April 7, 2010

This is a city of 250,000 on the equator though today there is a nice breeze. We have had a hard time the last week dealing with norovirus and rather corrupt Brazillian officials. Some charge cigarettes and others booze and others just money. Nontheless they have kind of cutailed our ports. We saw a little of the cities but now we are on the Amazon. I woke up to the sound of the small river boats slowly chugging their way up and down the brown lazy river. So wide that you cannot always see the edges. It is so humid but I am acclimating pretty well. There were 2 pink dolphins along side yesterday and a few birds. The markets are so interesting. the children are beautiful of course. The folks in this city are pretty isolated but much nicer than on the coast. Few animals though we went to a zoo the other day in Belem.
Macapa is unusually clean compared to what we have seen and it seems safer. We have had over a dozen passengers mugged including a lady yesterday who was knifed for her camera. She took a few stitches and seems alright now. Can be quite dangerous unless you keep your wits about you. That said it is all quite interesting. Have to go. Loved all your comments. Sotrry about the floods. I did see a short thing on CNN about the Warwick mall. Feel so out of touch here. I miss everyone. Luckily I brough a video of Riley that we have watched. Tomorrow a jungle trip in Santarem