Hanoi, Vietnam, January 14 -17, 2012
What can one even begin to say about Hanoi. It defines the word cacophony. It is hard to describe the chaos that is this city. Mostly this is due to the multitude of motorbikes which now have a growing number of cars and trucks to contend with on inadequate roads. Unlike India there are no animals like cows, or camels like Egypt but these guys just lean on their horns constantly and zip in and out. It was an adventure just to cross any street. you just have to commit and keep going even if one of them is headed towards you. Despite all that Hanoi is absolutely unique. the capital of Vietnam, there is more of a military presence here. Rather dour soldiers stand at some spots and order people around, especially over near Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum. We stayed in the old quarter, in the heart of the city. for nearly 4 nights at the May de Ville hotel,another oasis located on the street where the ladies kill and gut the chickens. This is getting to seem normal to me now. I hardly glance at them as I walk by though I have to admit that I marveled at one lady's stall.She had trussed her hens, fully plucked, but still with heads and feet.The heads were stuck and tied between the feet and the faces had looks of horror.She had placed a rose sticking out of their rears. I hope the picture turns out.
Anyway the weather remained drizzly and damp though not really cold. We walked for a few miles and eventually made our way to the infamous Hoa Loa Prison better known as the Hanoi Hilton where John McCain was imprisoned for 6 years. It is an old French prison formerly used in the torture of Viet revolutionaries. It was so harsh and sad. There was, of course, quite a bit of propaganda but it was still absorbing to look at.From there we cabbed to the Ho Chi Minh museum which was a riot. Was like going through an Epcot exhibit showing how Ho had changed the world. A short distance away, his body lies embalmed and on display but only in the AM and we missed it. Instead we went to his house which was built on stilts and simple but beautiful. I guess he could have lived in the palace next door but wanted to show the people that he was like them. He is still a cult figure and you really had to watch your step around these areas. The guards kept ordering us this way and that and I was not going to argue with them. Bert has become an aficionado of pho and he found a good supply of it a block from the hotel, alternating between pho ga - chicken, and pho Bo-beef.
The next morning we left for a 4 hour van ride to Ha Long city. Ha Long bay is newly named one of the 7 natural wonders of the world. It is a bay filled with limestone karsts and hills which rise out of the water in many strange and odd shapes. There are about 500 replica junks which can be hired to ply the waters.Of our group of 14, we were the only ones over 40, who were a mixture of nationalities. Luckily everyone spoke English and that was the language used by our guide ,Tu. The ride there was long but tolerable as you get to see the many towns and villages. We had a great lunch of fish and rice and chicken and then visited a floating village and fish farm.The people live all the time on the water and was quite interesting to see their way of life. We then took a kayak and paddled through a tunnel to a hidden lagoon . The cliffs rose up all around us. No one spoke loudly. It is a place of peace and tranquility. We also had the joy of seeing the sun for the first time in a week. It was fleeting, however, but timely for this excursion. At the end of the boat ride we visited a limestone cave which was wonderful. The ride home went well with a rest stop. Glad we went. Cost only $45 each and well worth it.
On our last day, after a morning resting, we went to the famous water puppet show. It is held in a 300 seat theater with a regular stage but a 3 foot deep pond in the front. The puppets act out various scenes from Viet mythology with dragons and fish and emperors and such. Very entertaining and easy enough to understand though it was in Vietnamese. The accompanying music was wonderful,as well.
At 8:30PM we left the hotel for the chaos of one last taxi drive back to the airport. Let me say I have had many Kamikaze drivers but this young man could have beaten them all. I kept thinking as he sped into oncoming cars that I made it through a month in southeast Asia eating and drinking God knows what but I was going to die on the way home. So glad to finally see the airport! We flew during the night not sleeping at all due to cramped seats. Unfortunately we had an 18 hour layover in Tokyo as we had to make our own way from Narita Airport to Haneda the closer airport to the city.
First time in Japan and I was shocked at little English the people we had to depend on could speak. This included the information people as well. Of course, I know I know no Japanese but I was thinking that maybe they had to learn in school or something. Anyway we made it onto a local train. Dumped our bags at Hamamasucho station . Wandered down to Hinode Pier to take the water taxi to Asukusa, the old section. Nice ride. Old section a bit overrated but was fine. The weather was sunny, yeah! But absolutely freezing. We walked for miles hacking away with our now pathetic coughs. Ended up at the Art museum for western art, saw a ton of Monets and ate at McDonald 's. I know heresy, but it didn't even taste like McDonald's anyway. For our farewell we took the monorail to Haneda and here I sit finishing this up with Bert sound asleep on the benches at the gate. We have been up for 37 hours now and the flight is in 3 more.
This was a good trip,as they all usually are. I loved each place for its unique qualities. I think it is awesome to see all the young people who backpack around these places getting to know the cultures and people. They are the future leaders and it can only be a good thing that, when decisions are made, whether business or political, they have these experiences to draw on . They are good kids. Hardly any Americans but lots of Aussies and Europeans. We Americans need to get out there and get to know other peoples. To paraphrase Mark Twain, travel is fatal to prejudice.
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Friday, January 13, 2012
Hue, Vietnam
January 13, 2012. Hoi An to Hue
As I am sitting outside the room waiting for the cab to take us to Hue, noticed a group of ladies busy working in a circle under the bridge next to the hotel. Upon closer inspection it seems they are running the chicken operation. Young women bring them 3-4 live hen held by their feet, squawking, swear they are yelling "help me!". The first lady grabs them and wrings their necks, the second one holds them to a fire, the 3rd plucks them and the 4th cuts them and bleeds them. Then they get a customer with a plastic bag and off they go.
To get to Hus, the old French capital of Vietnam ,we hired a car and driver for $55 for the 3 hour drive. Along the way we drove through Da Nang, and passed a very pretty beach which ran for miles along the South China Sea with a backdrop of mountains fringed with clouds. This was the only snippet of sun that we have seen and it felt glorious. As we headed up and over the Hai Van pass we entered the clouds and very twisty turns and grades. The traffic was fairly light and we made good time passing the many villages and rice paddies. Hue is an old city with not many tall buildings. Those that are here are rather well proportioned . It is bisected by the Perfume River which is sounds prettier than it is. The draw here is the Citadel. A complex of temples and palaces which were built 200 years ago by the Emperor and occupied by his successors until Ho Chi Minh took over in 1945 . They were bombed during the 1947 French War and ,of course, by the US forces in the 60s. They are slowly restoring the site but it is a huge task. There is still a lot to see and we spent almost 4 hours wandering in and out and around. We watched a traditional music group practice for a show in the Royal Theater. For the ride back to the Camellia Hotel, which is a great place, we used a cyclo. Basicly this is a bike driven rickshaw. The guy piled me on top of Bert and away we went into the obscenely crazy traffic. More than once I closed my eyes sure I was about to be creamed by a motorcycle or cab. Have to say it was fun but not for the faint hearted.Dinner at the restaurant next door. Again $7 for a lot of food and it was pretty good. Bert has become a big fan of pho, the national rice noodle dish.
As I am sitting outside the room waiting for the cab to take us to Hue, noticed a group of ladies busy working in a circle under the bridge next to the hotel. Upon closer inspection it seems they are running the chicken operation. Young women bring them 3-4 live hen held by their feet, squawking, swear they are yelling "help me!". The first lady grabs them and wrings their necks, the second one holds them to a fire, the 3rd plucks them and the 4th cuts them and bleeds them. Then they get a customer with a plastic bag and off they go.
To get to Hus, the old French capital of Vietnam ,we hired a car and driver for $55 for the 3 hour drive. Along the way we drove through Da Nang, and passed a very pretty beach which ran for miles along the South China Sea with a backdrop of mountains fringed with clouds. This was the only snippet of sun that we have seen and it felt glorious. As we headed up and over the Hai Van pass we entered the clouds and very twisty turns and grades. The traffic was fairly light and we made good time passing the many villages and rice paddies. Hue is an old city with not many tall buildings. Those that are here are rather well proportioned . It is bisected by the Perfume River which is sounds prettier than it is. The draw here is the Citadel. A complex of temples and palaces which were built 200 years ago by the Emperor and occupied by his successors until Ho Chi Minh took over in 1945 . They were bombed during the 1947 French War and ,of course, by the US forces in the 60s. They are slowly restoring the site but it is a huge task. There is still a lot to see and we spent almost 4 hours wandering in and out and around. We watched a traditional music group practice for a show in the Royal Theater. For the ride back to the Camellia Hotel, which is a great place, we used a cyclo. Basicly this is a bike driven rickshaw. The guy piled me on top of Bert and away we went into the obscenely crazy traffic. More than once I closed my eyes sure I was about to be creamed by a motorcycle or cab. Have to say it was fun but not for the faint hearted.Dinner at the restaurant next door. Again $7 for a lot of food and it was pretty good. Bert has become a big fan of pho, the national rice noodle dish.
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Hoi An ,Vietnam. Jan 12,2012
Today was our full day in Hoi An. It continues to rain softly and I feel as moist as a fish, but it isn't too bad. We have pretty good wifi, so good to hear from everybody at home. We spent the day visiting the various preserved old houses. They are somewhat similar, being made of teak with Chinese or Japanese influences. All have altars for their ancestors with the ashes in small urns with coins next to them and incense sticks burning . Each, though, has some significance and they all were absorbing. There are hundreds and hundreds of small shops now housed in former shop houses just like in the old days. Many of them have a women making whaevert is being sold and it is fun to watch, whether it be a silk print or a silk lantern or an embroidered painting. We have eaten all our meals at a restaurant on the dock called the Cordon Bleu. The staff knows us now and we barely have to order. After lunch we hired a lady with a small boat to take us out on the river where we saw a duck farm, girls casting nets for fish, lovely homes and restaurants and some cattle and water buffalo. The hour long ride which cost 5 dollars went quickly. As we walked along the quai I saw a silk shop and decided to have a dressing gown made. It will be ready tonight at 7 and I am excited to have it as a souvenir of this truly unique town. It is famous for its tailors and shoe makers. Truthfully the only thing that would make it better would be to see the sun.
Tomorrow we have hired a driver to take us to Hue. We had wanted to take the train but it is the week before Tet or the New Year, a time when Vietnamese people come home from wherever they are and all the seats are sold out.
Tomorrow we have hired a driver to take us to Hue. We had wanted to take the train but it is the week before Tet or the New Year, a time when Vietnamese people come home from wherever they are and all the seats are sold out.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Hoi An Vietnam Jan 11,2012
After taking turns staying awake all night so we did not miss our early AM flight, we left our cubicle at the Tune Hotel,and flew Air Asia to Da Nang, Vietnam. Now it is getting cooler and, as it is the rainy season, it seems to continually drizzle. A bit grey. In the cab from the airport shared with a young couple from Amsterdam and Dubai, we passed the former air force base made famous on the nightly news during the 60s and early 70s. They have left it intact except for the decay of 40 years. Right near it is China Beach, the famous r and r place of the GIs. Now it is filled with luxury resorts. We were headed for Hoi An and I was getting nervous and hoping that it was as quaint as it has been written about and not like China Beach. No need to worry. This is a UNESCO city which has been virtually preserved. Out hotel,is about 16 rooms on the river ,Huy Hoang River Hotel. Our room is directly on the river with a big balcony overlooking the bridge and boat traffic. As small as Tune was, this is huge with a marble bathroom and TV with CNN and BBC. All for $55 with breakfast. If the sun were out life would be perfect.
Hoi An itself doesn't hide anything. They wash the dishes you just ate on in the river or in small pans in the street. The marketplace is for the locals mostly. Want to have duck? They will wring its neck for you and hand it over. I watched a lady sitting with a fresh uncooked pigs head, arranging it so nice on her platter.There are temples everywhere as well as preserved houses of the various Chinese merchants and traders who have lived here over the centuries. Nearly everywhere are the ubiquitous motorcyclists with their infernal horns.Everyone is constantly in motion yet it can be peaceful. So colorful, I find it hard to describe. Not a lot of tourists though. We stick out like sore thumbs with our height and light hair. Prices are cheap, especially after Australia. Fresh beer is 20 cents a mug and tastes great. Dinner for two runs about 5-7 dollars. The unit of currency is the dong and you get 20,000 to the dollar. They seem to be just as happy with dollars. When Bert went to the ATM at the airport, they would only dispense 2 million dong or $100, so we're millionaires for awhile!
Hoi An itself doesn't hide anything. They wash the dishes you just ate on in the river or in small pans in the street. The marketplace is for the locals mostly. Want to have duck? They will wring its neck for you and hand it over. I watched a lady sitting with a fresh uncooked pigs head, arranging it so nice on her platter.There are temples everywhere as well as preserved houses of the various Chinese merchants and traders who have lived here over the centuries. Nearly everywhere are the ubiquitous motorcyclists with their infernal horns.Everyone is constantly in motion yet it can be peaceful. So colorful, I find it hard to describe. Not a lot of tourists though. We stick out like sore thumbs with our height and light hair. Prices are cheap, especially after Australia. Fresh beer is 20 cents a mug and tastes great. Dinner for two runs about 5-7 dollars. The unit of currency is the dong and you get 20,000 to the dollar. They seem to be just as happy with dollars. When Bert went to the ATM at the airport, they would only dispense 2 million dong or $100, so we're millionaires for awhile!
Malaysia Jan 10,2011
Kuala Lumpur , Malaysia Jan 10,2012
So after a fitful night in our oven of a room , we boarded a bus and train to the city, capital of the country and located for some reason about40 miles from the airport. anyway this went well and it interesting to see the countryside which bamboo, palm trees and rolling hills. Very tropical. hen you get to the towns they are modern looking and by the city there architecture is amazing. everything looks brand new. this city just has sprouted up in the past few decades after the war. they were dominated and ruled by the British and occupied during WW2 by the Japanese, as,of course, was Singapore. They got their independence in the 50s, had the problems with communist guerillas from 48 to 60s but now fairly stable and prosperous. tin was mined , there is a lot of manufacturing, prices are cheap. We took the hop on bus for a few spins around the city and learned a lot. Enjoyed seeing the twin Petronas towers which were the tallest in the world for a few years. Stopped at the national, museum, visited the hibiscus garden. spent time at KL Sentral the train station. another nice city, not maybe as user friendly as Singapore but glad we came.
So after a fitful night in our oven of a room , we boarded a bus and train to the city, capital of the country and located for some reason about40 miles from the airport. anyway this went well and it interesting to see the countryside which bamboo, palm trees and rolling hills. Very tropical. hen you get to the towns they are modern looking and by the city there architecture is amazing. everything looks brand new. this city just has sprouted up in the past few decades after the war. they were dominated and ruled by the British and occupied during WW2 by the Japanese, as,of course, was Singapore. They got their independence in the 50s, had the problems with communist guerillas from 48 to 60s but now fairly stable and prosperous. tin was mined , there is a lot of manufacturing, prices are cheap. We took the hop on bus for a few spins around the city and learned a lot. Enjoyed seeing the twin Petronas towers which were the tallest in the world for a few years. Stopped at the national, museum, visited the hibiscus garden. spent time at KL Sentral the train station. another nice city, not maybe as user friendly as Singapore but glad we came.
Singapore part 2
Singapore Jan. 9,2012
Now that we are masters of the metro known as the MRT we took it to Little India to see some of the Hindu Temples and the stalls, crafts, sights and sounds ,etc. The best one we saw was Sri VeerenramdamKallang . the outside was a kaleidoscope of various human, animal and goddesses in every color carved facing every which way. Inside the temple which is dedicated to the goddess Kali, there were many worshippers praying and giving flower and food offering in exchange for blessings from the two swamis who were dispensing red and white ashes in dots on their foreheads. We wandered around as it began to drizzle again and came upon a house from the old days. One of the last Chinese villas which luckily was preserved and now is used as a herbal pharmacy. It was painted in dozens of colors and was a delight to look at. we also found and bought and ate tiny finger sized bananas which are so sweet.
I really liked little India as it has it's own personality and was not thinking I would enjoy Chinatown which was next on the list but I was in for a surprise. this area was so lively and entertaining. It is now a series of pedestrian only streets with hundreds of stalls selling everything from kitsch to herbs to food to antiques to fortunes to tailor made suits. we went into the Buddhist temple of the broken tooth or something like that. I think they have a piece of Buddhas tooth. anyway lots and lots of Buddha statues lining the walls and again many devotees kneeling in front of the altars. We found the god of the year of the rabbit, for 1951 and 1939, our birth years,
We picked up the bags at the Lavender Hotel, great place and headed for Changi airport still using out MRT card. Such a good deal for about $5 a day. A premier airport with a few swimming pools, free movie theaters, Tv rooms for free, over 500 free Internet computers, 8 gardens, even a 3 story slide if you spend $10! Almost hated to leave but I think Singapore is really one of the nicest cities I have visited. Jetstar air took us to Kuala Lumpur in a 35 minute flight. Malaysia and Singapore were once the same country until about 50 years ago. they still speak the same language, many of the same customs etc but Malaysia is predominantly a Muslim country. Most of the women wear long colorful clothes and head covering. It is so hot I cannot fathom how they stand it. We landed at KLIA , kuala lumpar international airport which was astoundingly modern. first time I ever entered a foreign country without having to fill out a single paper, they just digitally fingerprinted us. This airport was amazing, on a par with the new Delhi Airport. however since we are to fly next to DaNang we had to stay at another section which is located 20 miles away. this must have been the old airport , we took a bus for 2.5 ringgits for 25 minutes. Our hotel, the Tune Hotel, is the only hotel for miles. Our room could only be described as a cell. there was a bed with 1 foot clearance around the edges, no closet, no TV, tiny tiny bathroom. We were allotted 1 towel for the 2 of us for the 2 nights and only 12 hours of air con and electricity. to conserve we took turns turning off the air on during the night. there was only a 1 foot wide window in the bath which opened onto the window of the room across., no table,8 feet by 8 feet and no phone. Wow, and it cost $50 a night!
Now that we are masters of the metro known as the MRT we took it to Little India to see some of the Hindu Temples and the stalls, crafts, sights and sounds ,etc. The best one we saw was Sri VeerenramdamKallang . the outside was a kaleidoscope of various human, animal and goddesses in every color carved facing every which way. Inside the temple which is dedicated to the goddess Kali, there were many worshippers praying and giving flower and food offering in exchange for blessings from the two swamis who were dispensing red and white ashes in dots on their foreheads. We wandered around as it began to drizzle again and came upon a house from the old days. One of the last Chinese villas which luckily was preserved and now is used as a herbal pharmacy. It was painted in dozens of colors and was a delight to look at. we also found and bought and ate tiny finger sized bananas which are so sweet.
I really liked little India as it has it's own personality and was not thinking I would enjoy Chinatown which was next on the list but I was in for a surprise. this area was so lively and entertaining. It is now a series of pedestrian only streets with hundreds of stalls selling everything from kitsch to herbs to food to antiques to fortunes to tailor made suits. we went into the Buddhist temple of the broken tooth or something like that. I think they have a piece of Buddhas tooth. anyway lots and lots of Buddha statues lining the walls and again many devotees kneeling in front of the altars. We found the god of the year of the rabbit, for 1951 and 1939, our birth years,
We picked up the bags at the Lavender Hotel, great place and headed for Changi airport still using out MRT card. Such a good deal for about $5 a day. A premier airport with a few swimming pools, free movie theaters, Tv rooms for free, over 500 free Internet computers, 8 gardens, even a 3 story slide if you spend $10! Almost hated to leave but I think Singapore is really one of the nicest cities I have visited. Jetstar air took us to Kuala Lumpur in a 35 minute flight. Malaysia and Singapore were once the same country until about 50 years ago. they still speak the same language, many of the same customs etc but Malaysia is predominantly a Muslim country. Most of the women wear long colorful clothes and head covering. It is so hot I cannot fathom how they stand it. We landed at KLIA , kuala lumpar international airport which was astoundingly modern. first time I ever entered a foreign country without having to fill out a single paper, they just digitally fingerprinted us. This airport was amazing, on a par with the new Delhi Airport. however since we are to fly next to DaNang we had to stay at another section which is located 20 miles away. this must have been the old airport , we took a bus for 2.5 ringgits for 25 minutes. Our hotel, the Tune Hotel, is the only hotel for miles. Our room could only be described as a cell. there was a bed with 1 foot clearance around the edges, no closet, no TV, tiny tiny bathroom. We were allotted 1 towel for the 2 of us for the 2 nights and only 12 hours of air con and electricity. to conserve we took turns turning off the air on during the night. there was only a 1 foot wide window in the bath which opened onto the window of the room across., no table,8 feet by 8 feet and no phone. Wow, and it cost $50 a night!
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Singapore Jan 8, 2012
Today we disembarked from the Zaandam in Singapore. This island nation of 4 .5 million is one of the cleanest, well run places I have ever been. I know they are strict - no gum, crazy import fees for cigarettes, no graffiti and you get jailed for jay walking. No Kidding. We were standing for about 5 minutes at a light waiting for the little map to turn green, there no cars anywhere and yet the 5 or so young men standing with us refused to cross until it was green. Was so weird. they were literally afraid to get caught. We are staying at the V Hotel lavender just above the Mrt station. great location and free wifi but the tiniest room you ever saw. Can almost touch each wall at the same time. Still we are never here except to sleep. Mastered the Mrt or mass transit immediately and it is awesome. So easy to get around . the first place we went was to Raffles Hotel. I used to love to read Somerset Maugham as a high schooler and I knew how he came here to write and hang out. Was so cool to finally see it. the hotel is as beautiful.as I wanted it to be. about 100 years old with ceiling fans and a guy dressed as a ancient pasha who greets the guests. gorgeous gardens and even a museum detailing the famous people who stayed here from Kipling
to Noel Coward.
We Walked around the historic areas though it had started to,drizzle and then rain. Late lunch at a street vendor. not too sure what we ate but was good . In the evening we took the train and a bus to the zoo, to their Night Safari. this was one of the best zoo experiences I have ever had. They open when it gets dark. there is a fire show with Borneo fire eaters and then an animal show with some trained nocturnal animals. Then a tram ride through the rainforest past many many different mammals from Malayan tigers to sloth bears and lions to a
L kinds of cattle and deer and antelope. Many animals I had never heard of. It really was a different experience. funni
Y enough as we exited we ran into some of our friends from the ship who happened to get there and finish when we did. such a small world.
to Noel Coward.
We Walked around the historic areas though it had started to,drizzle and then rain. Late lunch at a street vendor. not too sure what we ate but was good . In the evening we took the train and a bus to the zoo, to their Night Safari. this was one of the best zoo experiences I have ever had. They open when it gets dark. there is a fire show with Borneo fire eaters and then an animal show with some trained nocturnal animals. Then a tram ride through the rainforest past many many different mammals from Malayan tigers to sloth bears and lions to a
L kinds of cattle and deer and antelope. Many animals I had never heard of. It really was a different experience. funni
Y enough as we exited we ran into some of our friends from the ship who happened to get there and finish when we did. such a small world.
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