August29-30,2009 England and Wales
Somehow I knew back in January when I booked this trip that I was taking a chance. Two ill parents, both loved to travel. Mom died 6 weeks ago, Dad in his last days. I felt I had done all I could for him and that he would want me to go. I said goodbye to him this AM. Somehow I know he heard me and understood.
We took the train to Boston and Aer Lingus via Dublin to Manchester, England. On board was the Irish Prime Minister and his cabinet- Ted Kennedy's was this AM. That was both reassuring and disconcerting- extra security but increased alert to terrorists. We did get immediately clearance for takeoff. fast flight, just over 4 1/2 hours to Dublin.
Picked up the VW Golf rental. Immediately I had to drive, manual , left side road, right handed drive, down 13 floors of the parking garage and into the maelstrom of English roundabouts and M roads- on 5 days of maybe 16 hours sleep cumulative. Our first stop was Chester, England. A lovely, 2000 years old Roman- founded city filled with black and white timbered buildings. Totally enclosed within thick, walkable city walls, it was easy to park on a Sunday morning. The bells of the Cathedral pealed continuously as we wandered around. Baskets of bright red and blue flowers hung on light fixtures, cobbled street. Brightly colored narrow boats parked along the River Dee and its canal.
After lunch at a Subway we continued into northern Wales stopping first at Conwy Castle and its old suspension bridge with bridge keeper and toll house. We also toured Aberconwy House- an ancient merchant's house- 400 years old.. first use of the Royal Oak card Bert purchased for $80. We can use it at any National Trust property and we plan to get our money's worth. From there we headed west to Bangor and Penrhyn Castle. About 200 years old, this place is magnificent. Puts a Newport mansion , even the Breakers, to shame. Located on 100's of acres overlooking the sea, each room was filled with fabulous furniture and artifacts.
Our hotel in Bangor was at the Management Center run by the university business school. Really nice rooms though we had so much trouble finding it. Recently renovated hundred year old building with multi floors and stairs. I got lost every time I left the room. The day turned to a night with driving sheets of rain.
August 31, 2009
Our driving day through Wales. On and off rain but lovely scenery through the vales and mountains. Every sign in wales is first in Welsh and then English. ARAF means slow. Nearly every word is unintelligible and impossible to guess. The Welsh people work hard to preserve their culture and it shows. After passing many small villages filled with stone houses with slate roofs and baskets of flowers we visited Powis Castle. Smaller than yesterday's castle but with killer gardens terraced with gigantic hanging yews leading down to rose gardens lined with a half dozen lead statues. In the distance were views of England. After a several hour traffic jam due to a steam rally, we drove to the Frogmills Hotel in the Cotswolds.
Sept 1 The Cotswolds- land of sheep and honey colored stone
Our hotel is a just opened renovated granary beautifully set in a huge field with sheep and horses. We first visited Chedsworth Roman Villa ruins discovered just 100 years ago. It is a 1600 years old farm with outstanding intact mosaic floors. To get there we travelled the many gorgeous little villages built of Cotswold stone- a yellow ochre color reminiscent of Tuscan stone though brighter. Cute names like Withington, Upper and Lower Slaughter, Bibury and Stow in Wold.
At Burford I finally found a library which had internet connection. Sadly it was here that I learned that my father had died the day before- about 36 hours after I left him. Though I knew it was coming it was still so hard to believe. As I replied to various emails, I was overcome - apologies to the librarian. We walked the village streets for awhile then took a short drive. Rounding a bend in a small lane we came upon a field over which was a beautiful rainbow. Many who know me know the story of Molly and the rainbows. Last year Dad and I had a talk about the possibility of Heaven. I asked him to let me know he was OK via a rainbow. And just 15 minutes after learning of his death there it was. I knew immediately. Not only that- Bert and I hiked through a sheep field 30 minutes later and came across a double rainbow. OK Dad, I get the point! Thank you for everything. I will never forget you.
Sept 2,2009
We decided to stay here at the Frog Mill- so lovely. Today we went to see the collection of Charles Wade- 22-000 artifacts in an old mansion- anything you could imagine this guy saved. So cool. Then Hidcote Gardens. Actually kind of outdoor rooms. Every different color and type of flower. The walls were the hedges separating the "rooms". You walked through a wide cut to go from one to the other. each "room"as totally different, some all white flowers, another purple and yellow, others were different fragrances. Stunning and peaceful. Just what I needed.
Sept 3, 2009 Stonehenge
Today was neolithic stone day. First Avebury- a village surrounded by 100 odd tall monoliths arranged in a large circle hundreds of meters across- sheep laying next to them. Remnants of Hurricane Danny produced 50 mph winds blowing away the rain clouds. Great walks , few people. In contrast, Stonehenge 20 miles south is rather unimpressive. Loads of tourists by the busload. We also saw a couple of Wiltshire horses carved into the hillsides outside towns- in chalk. Kind of fun.
Sept 4, 2009
We leave for Southampton to meet our ship, Crown Princess tomorrow. On the way we stopped at Winchester Cathedral- can't get the song out of my head. Here we met up with old friends Martin and Anne Wright from Surrey. We spent time with them on our 2002 Russian trip and have been corresponding ever since but have not seen each other in 7 years. Great to see them again and, after a tour of the Cathedral and the Great Hall of the now defunct castle, we had a "proper tea".
Sept 5, 2009 Southampton
This is a rather non-descript city famous for launching the Titanic. Another city who wishes their castle hadn't crumbled. There are signs glorifying where such and such castle was but now gone. I think of these cities as having castle envy. Our ship, the Crown Princess, is 116.000 the largest we have been on. nice room with a balcony. Routine sail away with the next day at sea passing many oil rigs
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