We've left Brazil and now in French Guiana- technically a department or state of France- so it's merci and si vous plait instead of obrigada and por favor. Infamous Devil's Island is really 3 tiny islands 6 miles off the coast- Iles St Joseph, Ile Royale and Ile du Diable. Ile Royale is the main island 34 acres large and contains the ruins of the well known penal colony. For 100 years until about 60 years ago almost 100,000 poor souls were sent here from France many, many wrongly accused or for offenses that today would get them a slap on the wrist. Just a few degrees above the equator, it was brutally hot and most died from diseases as yellow fever, smallpox, malaria and just cruelty by the guards who themselves did not want to be here either.
Flash forward 60 years and today the islands are tropical paradises covered by palm trees and various flowers. No paved roads, dirt trails leading up to the ruins. There is a small hotel of 8 rooms for 81 euros a night. You come over from the mainland on your yacht. Otherwise it is absolutely peaceful and quiet. We got the first tender. The sea is very choppy with large swells making tendering an adventure. For an hour we had the place to ourselves. We visited the remains of the various cells, children's cemetery, church, hospital, warden's homes.
There was a family of monkeys in the large tree outside the church. The monkeys are not used to seeing people- only a few ships a years stop here and there is virtually no other way to get here. I spent a long time watching them as they scampered to within a few feet. Mothers with babies clinging to their backs, the father protector, young rascals who picked fruit and flung it directly at me. I later saw a large green Amazon parrot who was as intrigued with me as I with him. It poured intermittently making the trails muddy. indeed I had sandals on and upon returning to the ship had trouble washing it off. I thought about those many prisoners here for decades with no way to wash the muck off. So sad. I love a port like this. Combines history with nature and still unspoiled. Good day- The $3 Heineken beer from the hotel terrace just made it better.
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