Sept 16, 2009 Nuuk, Greenland
Our first look at Greenland is impressive. the weather has cleared and although 35, it is dry. Nuuk is the capital and with half of the population- around 30,000. The houses are, again, multicolored but not particularly cute. The people are primarily Inuit with a few Danes. They speak Greenlandic- taught in schools, secondarily Danish and some have English. Nuuk is surrounded by high mountains now mostly clear of snow though you can see glaciers. Only 100km of roads though none lead out of town. There is an airport which lands rather small planes. There is even a traffic light as there must be 1000 cars. In the winter, when there is almost no daylight, they use sleds and snowmobiles. We walked all around town marvelling at the majestic scenery- icebergs in the harbors, hills rising everywhere. The children were adorable. Only 5 cruise ships a years come here so bringing 3000 plus 1000 crew is a huge event here. There are 3 buses and a few cabs but it is a very small place and no need. We had our lunch on a hill overlooking the 2 ports. The grass is mostly lichens, different colored mosses- orange, dark red, yellow. As I said it is 35 degrees and the Inuits are opening their windows for air. Warm for them. One negative is the sixties Soviet style concrete block apartment building- 12 rows of them which is a blight. Apparently they are to be torn down soon and new apts. are being built. These apts. are an attempt to attract those Inuit who live outside the village to provide better education and medical services.
We stayed ashore for 7 hours. Supermarkets were interesting as usual. food expensive but perhaps 30% higher than ours except for seal and whale meat. 2lbs hamburger were $10, tomatoes about 75 cents each and grapes $3 a pound. Some passengers complained that there weren't enough services or things for them to do. So frustrating listening to them.
To top off our lovely day in Nuuk, tonight we saw the aurora borealis, the northern lights. The sky was clear, no moon. For an hour from 10:45 to 11:45 green ribbons of light danced overhead. Fading and brightening we also caught glimpses of red for a few moments. What an experience!
Sept 18, 2009
We got the ship moored in the harbor of Nanotalik Greenland. We were on line for the tenders and the Captain cancelled this port call. Capt. nick Nash is very cautious. This is the 3rd port he's bailed out on and everyone is ready to scream. It is absolutely stunning here. Icebergs everywhere, the mountains shrouded in mist and light snow. Incredibly magnificent, like being in an outdoor cathedral. It is almost partly sunny. i think Nash worries that the very elderly seniors will be hurt tendering in. Someone fell last port sustaining facial injuries and we left someone in the Nuuk Hospital. The village children are lined up on the shore. Only 1500 inhabitants. This was to be their extra income for the year. The had practiced their songs and dances. I am sick for them watching us sail away. So disappointed but we'll spend the day cruising the Qonok fjord.
The fjord was awesome. The mountains on either side rose up thousands of feet with a fine sugar powder coating of snow. We sailed for an hour or two until the charts ran out. Towards the end of the fjord was a still working gold mine and lots of icebergs. Only 15% of Greenland is not in ice in the summer. We spotted a seal on a berg who finally rolled off into the water as well as a few whale spouts and a brief glimpse of one surfacing.
Sept 21
Another aborted port in St john's Newfoundland due to poor weather so instead we made for Halifax Nova Scotia. Was a bright sunny day with temp 72- about double what we've had. This is a busy delightful place much like Newport without the crowds. The Public Gardens were in full bloom with fountains, bridges, pavilions and duck ponds. The citadel overlooks the city and we watched the noon cannon go off with its guard change. The highlights were the boardwalks along the port with lots of various types of ships, shops and artists and musicians including a bagpiper. Nova Scotia means new Scotland and they embrace their heritage.
In the afternoon we toured Keith's brewery. Well done with energetic young guides in 1850 period costume portraying characters of the day. The India Pale was great and we brought an 8 pack of the red ale.
One last day of sailing and then New York. We disembark at the Brooklyn pier. To compensate us for our lost days in Scotland, Iceland, Greenland and Canada, Princess gave us $250 in ship credit. So thank you Princess for my new watch. It was a nice cruise overall. Not the best. crown princess is too large for me. 3100 passengers with no was to go outside due to weather. Because of lost port days we had a lot of unplanned sea days which are fine if you can sit outside. Saw a lot of movies, a few shows, met some interesting people. Many of these people have been everywhere so it was interesting to listen to their stories. I enjoyed the balcony even if we didn't use it much. The ability to get fresh air was great. Now home to family, work, flu shots and most importantly, Dad's funeral.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
The Faroe Islands
Sept 10, 2009 Torshavn, Faroes
One of the reasons I booked this trip was that the ship docked at this remote group of 18 islands just below the Arctic circle. Now owned by Denmark, the Faroese people have their own language, money and customs. They have a parliament and a fierce sense of their own identity going back to their beginnings as a Viking settlement. Today 47,000 citizens, half of whom reside in the capital Torshavn. We rented a car to explore the island of Stremoy- the 18 are connected via bridges, tunnels or ferries. As luck would have it our friends Paul and Marilyn joined us. Due to the severe weather many ships tours were cancelled. Stremoy is maybe 30 miles by 10 miles with large mountains in the middle- mostly shore roads. There were clusters of small villages of multi-colored and black houses about 25% of which had grass and turf roofs. even some of the churches had turf roofs.
We followed the road, basically 1 1/2 lanes wideto the end and northenmost part of the island. The last 3 miles were on a single lane about 500 ft ablove the sea with a 1000 ft of rock ledge above us. The road twisted and turned and i prayed there were no oncoming cars. The sheep were everywhereand, though the islands are totally volcanic, there was short grass everywhere- 70,0000 sheep as well as flocks of geese and ducks waddling around the fields. The village, , has 67 inhabitants located on 3 sides by mountains but facing the sea with a black sand beach. Looking across to the island of Estremoy we could clearly see 2 sea stacks each 75 meters tall. They are Reisen and Kjellger who in mythology were an Icelandic giant and his wife who thought the Faroes were so beautiful they tried to pull them home to Iceland but sun up turned them to stone. We met the only resident who was home. Named Brendus who, with perfect English, told us of growing up here. it was cold, windy and dramatically, beautifully wild. Hundreds of waterfalls everywhere falling to the sea from the interior mountains.
Tomorrow another sea day. The wind and sea have not abated. the North Sea is very violent and rough. the temp never above 54 but feels so much colder. There is frequent fog and more rain. While the Faroes are beautiful, it must be awful in the winter with so little sun. They get only 989 hours of sun a year!
Sept 12, 2009 Iceland
An aborted attempt to dock at Akureyri, Iceland. The weather was sunny for the first time but wind howling and the dock too rickety to hold the ship . So much disappointment as I looked forward to seeing the geothermal wonders of this area of northern Iceland. Could see the gorgeous ponies from the ship. Our little Riley's 1st birthday today. We miss her and Tessa.
Sept 13, 2009 Reykjavik, Iceland
Since we were here just 2 years ago we forewent a car and just strolled the city. Went to Mass at the Catholic cathedral. The choir sang in Latin though the priest's prayers were in Icelandic. At the kiss of peace the tall older woman in front of me turned towards me and shook my hand with a ferocity I had never felt before. It felt like she broke my fingers and wrenched my arm at the same time. As she turned back I started to view her as one of those huge Wagnerian opera divas with the breastplate and horned hat. She was strong! Got on the internet for 1/2 hour to see what was up in the world and to wish the granddaughters a happy birthday. Doesn't seem they could be a year old already.
Now 2 days at sea to get to Greenland. Really rough and many have sea sickness patches on. I love it!
One of the reasons I booked this trip was that the ship docked at this remote group of 18 islands just below the Arctic circle. Now owned by Denmark, the Faroese people have their own language, money and customs. They have a parliament and a fierce sense of their own identity going back to their beginnings as a Viking settlement. Today 47,000 citizens, half of whom reside in the capital Torshavn. We rented a car to explore the island of Stremoy- the 18 are connected via bridges, tunnels or ferries. As luck would have it our friends Paul and Marilyn joined us. Due to the severe weather many ships tours were cancelled. Stremoy is maybe 30 miles by 10 miles with large mountains in the middle- mostly shore roads. There were clusters of small villages of multi-colored and black houses about 25% of which had grass and turf roofs. even some of the churches had turf roofs.
We followed the road, basically 1 1/2 lanes wideto the end and northenmost part of the island. The last 3 miles were on a single lane about 500 ft ablove the sea with a 1000 ft of rock ledge above us. The road twisted and turned and i prayed there were no oncoming cars. The sheep were everywhereand, though the islands are totally volcanic, there was short grass everywhere- 70,0000 sheep as well as flocks of geese and ducks waddling around the fields. The village, , has 67 inhabitants located on 3 sides by mountains but facing the sea with a black sand beach. Looking across to the island of Estremoy we could clearly see 2 sea stacks each 75 meters tall. They are Reisen and Kjellger who in mythology were an Icelandic giant and his wife who thought the Faroes were so beautiful they tried to pull them home to Iceland but sun up turned them to stone. We met the only resident who was home. Named Brendus who, with perfect English, told us of growing up here. it was cold, windy and dramatically, beautifully wild. Hundreds of waterfalls everywhere falling to the sea from the interior mountains.
Tomorrow another sea day. The wind and sea have not abated. the North Sea is very violent and rough. the temp never above 54 but feels so much colder. There is frequent fog and more rain. While the Faroes are beautiful, it must be awful in the winter with so little sun. They get only 989 hours of sun a year!
Sept 12, 2009 Iceland
An aborted attempt to dock at Akureyri, Iceland. The weather was sunny for the first time but wind howling and the dock too rickety to hold the ship . So much disappointment as I looked forward to seeing the geothermal wonders of this area of northern Iceland. Could see the gorgeous ponies from the ship. Our little Riley's 1st birthday today. We miss her and Tessa.
Sept 13, 2009 Reykjavik, Iceland
Since we were here just 2 years ago we forewent a car and just strolled the city. Went to Mass at the Catholic cathedral. The choir sang in Latin though the priest's prayers were in Icelandic. At the kiss of peace the tall older woman in front of me turned towards me and shook my hand with a ferocity I had never felt before. It felt like she broke my fingers and wrenched my arm at the same time. As she turned back I started to view her as one of those huge Wagnerian opera divas with the breastplate and horned hat. She was strong! Got on the internet for 1/2 hour to see what was up in the world and to wish the granddaughters a happy birthday. Doesn't seem they could be a year old already.
Now 2 days at sea to get to Greenland. Really rough and many have sea sickness patches on. I love it!
Crown Princess Transatlantic 2009 cont'd
Sept 7, 2009 Stavanger ,Norway
A new country for me. Stavanger is a small city with a compact old town. Weather is windy and rainy. We skipped the fjords tour and walked through the old section of colorful wooden merchant houses with the baskets of flowers and cobblestoned streets to the oil museum. It is a warm and dry refuge for a few hours learning about the hazards and costs and mechanisms of building those mammoth oil rigs which are ubiquitous in the North sea around here. While a bit boring- no pun intended, well maybe a little- to many women- we lined up on the benches waiting as the men read every word on every exhibit, it did give me a greater appreciation for what it takes to obtain a barrel of oil and why it costs so much. After a drippy visit to the Cathedral which had a beautiful wooden carved pulpit and someone playing the organ, we adjourned to the ship.
Sept 7, 2009 Bergen , Norway
The second largest city in Norway, Bergen retains much of its charm. Its Bryggen is a section designated a world heritage site. the old merchant houses painted red, blue, yellow, white, green and heavily timbered, now house small shops. Prices are criminally high. An ice cream cone is $5US, sweaters $150, Tshirts $20 and probably made in China. We sampled whale meat in the fish market- actually quite tasty. People were buying seal and reindeer skins and lots of troll dolls. Weather again miserably cold and spitting rain. tried to find a reasonably cost internet however $1 for 3 minutes was too high. Takes that long to log on. We crossed the pedestrian center to the Bergen Kunstmuseum which is comprised of 3 buildings and houses a fabulous collection of Norwegian artists. the foremost artist is Edvard Munsch (The Scream) but the others were wonderful colorful impressionists to modern. Obviously influenced by the French but a Norsk take on the genre. The best buy in Norway at $10 a ticket. After running to the shuttle in a soaking rain, we were safely ensconced, drying in our warm cabin when the fire alarm went off followed by a terse "This is not a drill""All crew to muster" Tense moments later it was explained that a minor fire in the engine room was under control. 30 minutes later the Captain came on to tell us that we would not be sailing tonight as the port was closed due to a severe storm in the North Sea.
We stayed put and left the next AM. Unfortunately now missing our stop in the Shetlands. As I write this on (9/9/09) we are sailing on 18 foot waves with 40 mph winds. Luckily the sun is out and I am am happy with a good book outside on deck in a rather windproof nook. We are passing the largest natural gas platform in the world. 1500 ft high above the water. It takes 9 minutes in the elevator to reach the sea floor thousands of feet below.
A new country for me. Stavanger is a small city with a compact old town. Weather is windy and rainy. We skipped the fjords tour and walked through the old section of colorful wooden merchant houses with the baskets of flowers and cobblestoned streets to the oil museum. It is a warm and dry refuge for a few hours learning about the hazards and costs and mechanisms of building those mammoth oil rigs which are ubiquitous in the North sea around here. While a bit boring- no pun intended, well maybe a little- to many women- we lined up on the benches waiting as the men read every word on every exhibit, it did give me a greater appreciation for what it takes to obtain a barrel of oil and why it costs so much. After a drippy visit to the Cathedral which had a beautiful wooden carved pulpit and someone playing the organ, we adjourned to the ship.
Sept 7, 2009 Bergen , Norway
The second largest city in Norway, Bergen retains much of its charm. Its Bryggen is a section designated a world heritage site. the old merchant houses painted red, blue, yellow, white, green and heavily timbered, now house small shops. Prices are criminally high. An ice cream cone is $5US, sweaters $150, Tshirts $20 and probably made in China. We sampled whale meat in the fish market- actually quite tasty. People were buying seal and reindeer skins and lots of troll dolls. Weather again miserably cold and spitting rain. tried to find a reasonably cost internet however $1 for 3 minutes was too high. Takes that long to log on. We crossed the pedestrian center to the Bergen Kunstmuseum which is comprised of 3 buildings and houses a fabulous collection of Norwegian artists. the foremost artist is Edvard Munsch (The Scream) but the others were wonderful colorful impressionists to modern. Obviously influenced by the French but a Norsk take on the genre. The best buy in Norway at $10 a ticket. After running to the shuttle in a soaking rain, we were safely ensconced, drying in our warm cabin when the fire alarm went off followed by a terse "This is not a drill""All crew to muster" Tense moments later it was explained that a minor fire in the engine room was under control. 30 minutes later the Captain came on to tell us that we would not be sailing tonight as the port was closed due to a severe storm in the North Sea.
We stayed put and left the next AM. Unfortunately now missing our stop in the Shetlands. As I write this on (9/9/09) we are sailing on 18 foot waves with 40 mph winds. Luckily the sun is out and I am am happy with a good book outside on deck in a rather windproof nook. We are passing the largest natural gas platform in the world. 1500 ft high above the water. It takes 9 minutes in the elevator to reach the sea floor thousands of feet below.
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
Transatlantic -England to New York, Sept, 2009
August29-30,2009 England and Wales
Somehow I knew back in January when I booked this trip that I was taking a chance. Two ill parents, both loved to travel. Mom died 6 weeks ago, Dad in his last days. I felt I had done all I could for him and that he would want me to go. I said goodbye to him this AM. Somehow I know he heard me and understood.
We took the train to Boston and Aer Lingus via Dublin to Manchester, England. On board was the Irish Prime Minister and his cabinet- Ted Kennedy's was this AM. That was both reassuring and disconcerting- extra security but increased alert to terrorists. We did get immediately clearance for takeoff. fast flight, just over 4 1/2 hours to Dublin.
Picked up the VW Golf rental. Immediately I had to drive, manual , left side road, right handed drive, down 13 floors of the parking garage and into the maelstrom of English roundabouts and M roads- on 5 days of maybe 16 hours sleep cumulative. Our first stop was Chester, England. A lovely, 2000 years old Roman- founded city filled with black and white timbered buildings. Totally enclosed within thick, walkable city walls, it was easy to park on a Sunday morning. The bells of the Cathedral pealed continuously as we wandered around. Baskets of bright red and blue flowers hung on light fixtures, cobbled street. Brightly colored narrow boats parked along the River Dee and its canal.
After lunch at a Subway we continued into northern Wales stopping first at Conwy Castle and its old suspension bridge with bridge keeper and toll house. We also toured Aberconwy House- an ancient merchant's house- 400 years old.. first use of the Royal Oak card Bert purchased for $80. We can use it at any National Trust property and we plan to get our money's worth. From there we headed west to Bangor and Penrhyn Castle. About 200 years old, this place is magnificent. Puts a Newport mansion , even the Breakers, to shame. Located on 100's of acres overlooking the sea, each room was filled with fabulous furniture and artifacts.
Our hotel in Bangor was at the Management Center run by the university business school. Really nice rooms though we had so much trouble finding it. Recently renovated hundred year old building with multi floors and stairs. I got lost every time I left the room. The day turned to a night with driving sheets of rain.
August 31, 2009
Our driving day through Wales. On and off rain but lovely scenery through the vales and mountains. Every sign in wales is first in Welsh and then English. ARAF means slow. Nearly every word is unintelligible and impossible to guess. The Welsh people work hard to preserve their culture and it shows. After passing many small villages filled with stone houses with slate roofs and baskets of flowers we visited Powis Castle. Smaller than yesterday's castle but with killer gardens terraced with gigantic hanging yews leading down to rose gardens lined with a half dozen lead statues. In the distance were views of England. After a several hour traffic jam due to a steam rally, we drove to the Frogmills Hotel in the Cotswolds.
Sept 1 The Cotswolds- land of sheep and honey colored stone
Our hotel is a just opened renovated granary beautifully set in a huge field with sheep and horses. We first visited Chedsworth Roman Villa ruins discovered just 100 years ago. It is a 1600 years old farm with outstanding intact mosaic floors. To get there we travelled the many gorgeous little villages built of Cotswold stone- a yellow ochre color reminiscent of Tuscan stone though brighter. Cute names like Withington, Upper and Lower Slaughter, Bibury and Stow in Wold.
At Burford I finally found a library which had internet connection. Sadly it was here that I learned that my father had died the day before- about 36 hours after I left him. Though I knew it was coming it was still so hard to believe. As I replied to various emails, I was overcome - apologies to the librarian. We walked the village streets for awhile then took a short drive. Rounding a bend in a small lane we came upon a field over which was a beautiful rainbow. Many who know me know the story of Molly and the rainbows. Last year Dad and I had a talk about the possibility of Heaven. I asked him to let me know he was OK via a rainbow. And just 15 minutes after learning of his death there it was. I knew immediately. Not only that- Bert and I hiked through a sheep field 30 minutes later and came across a double rainbow. OK Dad, I get the point! Thank you for everything. I will never forget you.
Sept 2,2009
We decided to stay here at the Frog Mill- so lovely. Today we went to see the collection of Charles Wade- 22-000 artifacts in an old mansion- anything you could imagine this guy saved. So cool. Then Hidcote Gardens. Actually kind of outdoor rooms. Every different color and type of flower. The walls were the hedges separating the "rooms". You walked through a wide cut to go from one to the other. each "room"as totally different, some all white flowers, another purple and yellow, others were different fragrances. Stunning and peaceful. Just what I needed.
Sept 3, 2009 Stonehenge
Today was neolithic stone day. First Avebury- a village surrounded by 100 odd tall monoliths arranged in a large circle hundreds of meters across- sheep laying next to them. Remnants of Hurricane Danny produced 50 mph winds blowing away the rain clouds. Great walks , few people. In contrast, Stonehenge 20 miles south is rather unimpressive. Loads of tourists by the busload. We also saw a couple of Wiltshire horses carved into the hillsides outside towns- in chalk. Kind of fun.
Sept 4, 2009
We leave for Southampton to meet our ship, Crown Princess tomorrow. On the way we stopped at Winchester Cathedral- can't get the song out of my head. Here we met up with old friends Martin and Anne Wright from Surrey. We spent time with them on our 2002 Russian trip and have been corresponding ever since but have not seen each other in 7 years. Great to see them again and, after a tour of the Cathedral and the Great Hall of the now defunct castle, we had a "proper tea".
Sept 5, 2009 Southampton
This is a rather non-descript city famous for launching the Titanic. Another city who wishes their castle hadn't crumbled. There are signs glorifying where such and such castle was but now gone. I think of these cities as having castle envy. Our ship, the Crown Princess, is 116.000 the largest we have been on. nice room with a balcony. Routine sail away with the next day at sea passing many oil rigs
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