Istanbul Turkey November 1,2014. After a 9 hour nonstop on Turkish air from Boston we landed in Istanbul. It was nearly 4 PM by the time we got the luggage and boarded the train and then tram to get to the hotel Arrife Sultan in Sultanahmed. Already the sun was setting and darkness had come by 5 when we got off in front of the Blue Mosque to find the little 8 room converted Anatolian house where we spent the night. Dropped the bags and, despite no sleep for 2 days , went right back out. This is the heart of old Istanbul . The ancient side streets which are empty during the day suddenly sprout tables and chairs each night and become restaurants. One right after another with accompanying waiters enticing us to eat. Instead we walked back to the mosque arriving just as the call to prayers began. Standing between Hagia Sofia begun by Constantine and the enormous blue mosque from the 1600s it was loud and mysterious and enchanting. The mosques were lit up and against the black sky I watched the white doves soar over them. There was a large circular fountain which had dancing waters of many colors. Lots of families and young couples, the women with scarves and veils walking around. When it got too cold and fatigue took over we reluctantly returned to the Arrife to our minute but clean room overlooking the busy street and listened to the mid eastern music, a soothing rhythm reminiscent of the kind when you see belly dancers. Also cannot forget to mention the ubiquitous cats of Turkey.They are beloved. My kind of people.