Yesterday was Saturday and we took the ferry across the Rio de la Plata to Colonia, Uruguay. Now the river is pretty wide but you can see BA from Colonia in the distance but it takes forever to cross. We learned the BA subway system, navigating across 2 lines, and then walked the last half mile to the port. We were out of pesos however and stopped 2x to try ATMs. They would not allow us to get money and we were really getting worried. You never know if someone has gained access and cleaned out your account or whatever. Anyway, thankfully, at the pòrt their ATM gave us some money. However it was extremely windy and the ferry was delayed by 3 hours. It only runs once each way and so now our 6 hour visit was cut to 2 and a half- you have to leave time for customs. We decided to go anyway as we were there and it cost $70 each- a lot for down here. The ferry carried probably 700 people easily 250 of which were very small children. Mostly these were families taking their annual vacations to the beaches in Uruguay which are apparently quite beautiful and very cheap. When we docked we were first off the ship and at the historic center in about 10 minutes.
I have to say that this so far has been my favorite place on the trip. Colonia is a UNESCO world heritage site rebuilt with UN money. It was the original Portugese settlement in what is now Uruguay and is just wonderful. For a dollar you can go in 5 restored old homes and businesses from the 17th century. The streets are the original stones, very erratic and haphazard to walk on but authentic. There is the requisite Plaza complete with horse drawn carriage, very few tourists even on a weekend in high season and we had the place to ourselves. The flowers! Wow, they were every different color- even on the same bush! The streets were lined with rows of centuries -old sycamore trees. The shops were unobtrusive but charming. Oddest though were the decades- old cars on the streets. These were 30s era cars that still work and are a source of pride to the residents. All too soon we hurried back to the dock to find there was a 3 hour delay- surprise! So we rushed back out , grabbed a cab driver and asked him to show us the rest of the city. The historic part is just on the end of the peninsula. It seems we had missed the beautiful beaches on the banks of the river upsteam. It was still windy and the river is enormous so there were waves as big as Green Hill. Here's the difference. The river is chocolate brown. To me it would look like you were swimming in melted Hersheys. There were palm trees and white sand and chocolate waves- very surreal. So the driver showed us where the "rich" Argentinians live and the bull ring now "cerrado" closed and the jai alai also "cerrado. I was wondering what the poor folks do for fun when he proudly told us that "big man Bush" came in his helicopter complete with whoosh whoosh sounds- and stayed in the Sheraton hotel for the night last March. He was so proud.
The ride home on the ferry included even more little kids all of whom sat near us- you cannot be outside and are confined to a giant room. I thought they were adorable and enjoyed their playing and watching the parents but Bert felt as if he had been condemned to Dante´s 4th level of Hell. We made the last subway home with a few mishaps but pretty much in one piece.
My cold has leveled off slightly. I know cough medicine does not work but I am trying to think positively. Have I mentioned how the farmacias work here in South America? It is so weird and hard to get used to. You go in one, there is one every corner, you find a sales girl and tell her what you want. Nothing is out on display, all behind in the back. You cannot compare or ask price. This is not just for meds but personals like tissues, shaving cream, lotions, shampoo, anything you would buy in a drug store. She asks you all these questions then gives you a slip which you take to the cashier. After waiting in line, you pay and then go to another line with the receipt and they go in the back and get the stuff. Can you imagine doing this at CVS? Let me tell you it can also be quite embarassing.
Today we went to the San Telmo flea market. There are all kinds of buskers which were the most entertaining I have ever seen,- tango dancers, marionettes, tango bands, a stilt walkerwho reached down and grabbed me to kiss me almost knocking us both over, singers, statue people. I was looking at a leather purse and said out loud I needed one that was larger. The lady next to me said "buy it anyway you can always use it". I answered that 'when you live in RI you bring everything you own when you go out' and, of course, she is from Newport. She gave us her husband´s name and we are supposed to call him to say she is fine and staying another month. Later while eating lunch we were approached by a fellow American who is travelling on his own but is our age, staying in hostels and was in need of conversation with someone over 30. He was fascinating. There are few Americans here and they tend to seek each other out.
Tomorrow we fly up north to Iguazu Falls on the Brazil and Paraguay border for 2 nights in the jungle. I can´t believe I have to work in 5 days.